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  #31  
Old 07-14-2014, 11:56 AM
Maxwelhse Maxwelhse is offline
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Originally Posted by garnold View Post
But I wonder how well they work. Some info that I have been reading says that they do not swivel enough to work. I'll try to find the link to that conversation again.
A heim joint should have way more freedom than the ball joint, but?

My bigger questions are of cost vs. benefit and if the zerk is really an advantage over a tie rod when you consider the heim joint is completely unsealed.
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  #32  
Old 07-14-2014, 02:47 PM
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DoubleO7 DoubleO7 is offline
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The CC end is steel ball in steel socket.
No grease, no oil, no bronze, no slippery plastic.
It does not wipe the bearing surface clean when it moves.
It relies on the rubber sleeve/seal not drying out, splitting and falling off to keep abrasives out.

The Heim style can be had with oil impregnated bronze bearing surface.
Or a PTFE liner instead. The HEIM joint wipes the bearing surfaces clean when it moves.

If you use a non-stud type HEIM joint directly bolted with a bolt in the eye, then the movement will be restricted.
Use the stud style HEIM joint.
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  #33  
Old 07-15-2014, 08:37 AM
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Would you mind posting a pic just so I can better understand exactly how this all worked out. I also read on another site the the joints with the grease port do not have the travel needed to work correctly.
This is how they installed notice that the stud isn't quite to the top of the lock nut. The stud on the TSC ends is a tad shorter that the original. As you can see in the picture the draglink is bent.
[IMG][/IMG]
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  #34  
Old 07-15-2014, 08:49 AM
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This is how they installed notice that the stud isn't quite to the top of the lock nut. The stud on the TSC ends is a tad shorter that the original. As you can see in the picture the draglink is bent.
[IMG][/IMG]
Sorry for the questions but which lock nut are you speaking of? It looks like the lock nuts are up against the ball joints? So how much thread is in that ball joint on the drag line that is bent? It looks like it is really not on that deep?
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  #35  
Old 07-15-2014, 09:16 AM
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Sorry for the questions but which lock nut are you speaking of? It looks like the lock nuts are up against the ball joints? So how much thread is in that ball joint on the drag line that is bent? It looks like it is really not on that deep?
The stud on the original joint measured 7/8" on the new ones it is 5/8". The stud is almost to the top of the nut when it is tightened. The nut you are referring to is the jam nut...the nylon lock nut is the one holding the assy to the steering knuckle. and at the time I took this picture it wasn't tightened completely.
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  #36  
Old 07-15-2014, 10:47 AM
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The stud on the original joint measured 7/8" on the new ones it is 5/8". The stud is almost to the top of the nut when it is tightened. The nut you are referring to is the jam nut...the nylon lock nut is the one holding the assy to the steering knuckle. and at the time I took this picture it wasn't tightened completely.
They also make a thin nyloc nut.
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  #37  
Old 07-15-2014, 09:26 PM
Maxwelhse Maxwelhse is offline
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They also make a thin nyloc nut.
That was my first thought, my second was that they also make grinders.

Take a little off of the bottom of the nuts. It doesn't appear to be a direct swap anymore though.
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  #38  
Old 07-17-2014, 10:42 AM
Whizdbiz2 Whizdbiz2 is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I guess it just depends on how much you use your machine. I never got any life out of RK, TSC, and the others.
I had one on my MTD built Huskee that went bad within two years, the OEM replacement has lasted 12 yrs. No change in usage.
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