My 125 is driving me insane.

[jbrewer]

Originally Posted by red56turbo

If contacts stick in the voltage regulator, it can and will make the starter/generator turn over with the key off. BTDT.

Or even if they're pitted and one side has developed a nub on it (BTDTT!)

[Nitro]

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

I have dial up so I'm not watching your video...

I try really hard not to get too wound up any more but sometimes it's hard...

The first thing STOP SETTING THE POINTS AT .20

Here is the straight poop.

I have had a number of S/Gs that will spin like crazy on the bench, but don't have enough power to turn an engine over. So keep that in mind.

When I get a new to me Cub Cadet that has issues or if the wiring or anything related is suspect, my first priority is to check to see if the engine is any good.

I FIRST REMOVE THE PLUG WIRE, I then check the points to see if they LOOK good, and then rotate the engine so that the points are CLOSED. Then I run a KNOWN GOOD POWER SUPPLY to the tractor, DON'T FART AROUND WITH SOME CRAPPY OLD L & G BATTERY use something that IS good. I usually use a boost box or jumper cables from my truck. I run a jumper wire from the pos. cable to the pos. side of the coil. I then use a screwdriver to manually open and close the points to see if they SPARK or not. If they do not I will file the points a little and try again if they still do not I use a test light to find out why (at this time there should be power to the screw that attaches the wire to the points when they are open and likewise at the neg. post on the coil) If you don't have this, then fix it, no matter what you do your engine WILL NOT RUN. Once you have fire to the points, then you can adjust your timing use this link to adjust your timing (and leave that feeler gauge in the drawer). http://mgonitzke.net16.net/tools/static_timing.pdf If you don't have a meter you can use a test light (when the light comes on the points have opened).

CHECK THE TIMING SEVERAL TIMES TO MAKE SURE IT IS EXACTLY WHERE YOU WANT IT TO BE AND ONLY TURN THE ENGINE THE WAY IT IS SUPPOSED TO TURN. You can take the plug out to make the engine turn easier.

Once you have fire to the points and your timing is set, LEAVE THE TRACTOR KEY IN YOUR POCKET, then attach the POS. (jumper cable) to the "A" terminal on the S/G and run a "jumper wire" from that cable TO the POS. side of the coil, DO NOT HOOK THE JUMPER CABLE TO THE THREADS ON THE "A" TERMINAL hook it to the NUT. Make sure the tractor is in neutral and attach the NEG jumper cable to the rear bolt head that holds the S/G onto its bracket. (you should have already replaced the spark plug and wire) The engine should turn as it normally would if you were using the key and everything was working as it should.

Some of the guys will yell at me about this but if the engine doesn't start right away, I will spritz a little starting fluid directly into the throat of the carburetor. The engine should come to life and run briefly then sputter to a stop if the fuel system needs attention and more starting fluid is not added.

If you do EXACTLY what I have outlined above you have BYPASSED EVERYTHING (other than internal engine problems) that will prevent your engine from starting, so be responsible and don't get yourself hurt. This system has worked perfectly for me on countless Cubs that have come my way over the years. I HAVE NEVER HAD TO ADJUST VALVES OR ANY OTHER CRAP JUST TO MAKE ONE RUN. (Not saying that I will never have to, because that day may come. It just hasn't happened yet in more than 20 years.)

So stop monkeying around going from one thing to another and make this engine run.

If you have a malfunctioning ACR, you gotta get that fixed too. Otherwise, this engine should run if you do what I have told you to do. END OF STORY!

Subscribed, copied, pasted, favorite, etc. Thanks Yosemite for making it so simple. The manual is hard to follow at times. I'll have to check mine again and see how far it is off. Few things are more satisfying than a healthy internal combustion engine.

[Texas Blues]

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

I have dial up so I'm not watching your video...

I try really hard not to get too wound up any more but sometimes it's hard...

The first thing STOP SETTING THE POINTS AT .20

Here is the straight poop.

I have had a number of S/Gs that will spin like crazy on the bench, but don't have enough power to turn an engine over. So keep that in mind.

When I get a new to me Cub Cadet that has issues or if the wiring or anything related is suspect, my first priority is to check to see if the engine is any good.

I FIRST REMOVE THE PLUG WIRE, I then check the points to see if they LOOK good, and then rotate the engine so that the points are CLOSED. Then I run a KNOWN GOOD POWER SUPPLY to the tractor, DON'T FART AROUND WITH SOME CRAPPY OLD L & G BATTERY use something that IS good. I usually use a boost box or jumper cables from my truck. I run a jumper wire from the pos. cable to the pos. side of the coil. I then use a screwdriver to manually open and close the points to see if they SPARK or not. If they do not I will file the points a little and try again if they still do not I use a test light to find out why (at this time there should be power to the screw that attaches the wire to the points when they are open and likewise at the neg. post on the coil) If you don't have this, then fix it, no matter what you do your engine WILL NOT RUN. Once you have fire to the points, then you can adjust your timing use this link to adjust your timing (and leave that feeler gauge in the drawer). http://mgonitzke.net16.net/tools/static_timing.pdf If you don't have a meter you can use a test light (when the light comes on the points have opened).

CHECK THE TIMING SEVERAL TIMES TO MAKE SURE IT IS EXACTLY WHERE YOU WANT IT TO BE AND ONLY TURN THE ENGINE THE WAY IT IS SUPPOSED TO TURN. You can take the plug out to make the engine turn easier.

Once you have fire to the points and your timing is set, LEAVE THE TRACTOR KEY IN YOUR POCKET, then attach the POS. (jumper cable) to the "A" terminal on the S/G and run a "jumper wire" from that cable TO the POS. side of the coil, DO NOT HOOK THE JUMPER CABLE TO THE THREADS ON THE "A" TERMINAL hook it to the NUT. Make sure the tractor is in neutral and attach the NEG jumper cable to the rear bolt head that holds the S/G onto its bracket. (you should have already replaced the spark plug and wire) The engine should turn as it normally would if you were using the key and everything was working as it should.

Some of the guys will yell at me about this but if the engine doesn't start right away, I will spritz a little starting fluid directly into the throat of the carburetor. The engine should come to life and run briefly then sputter to a stop if the fuel system needs attention and more starting fluid is not added.

If you do EXACTLY what I have outlined above you have BYPASSED EVERYTHING (other than internal engine problems) that will prevent your engine from starting, so be responsible and don't get yourself hurt. This system has worked perfectly for me on countless Cubs that have come my way over the years. I HAVE NEVER HAD TO ADJUST VALVES OR ANY OTHER CRAP JUST TO MAKE ONE RUN. (Not saying that I will never have to, because that day may come. It just hasn't happened yet in more than 20 years.)

So stop monkeying around going from one thing to another and make this engine run.

If you have a malfunctioning ACR, you gotta get that fixed too. Otherwise, this engine should run if you do what I have told you to do. END OF STORY!

Atta boy sam! The over anaylizing thing reminds me of some engineering types we have as customers in our shop. "Thats nice sir, we'll call you when WE diagnose the problem". I cant blame folks for not know some mechanical things, in fact I have not investigated the ACR system yet (only a matter of time), so I do not yet know how it is applied internally. But seeing as how the motor does run in the video, some things can be elimiated quicky. As ironman pointed out, the ACR needs to be checked. I was suprised to see how easily my 12hp motor turned over by hand, untill I learned that it has the ACR. Does the motor turn over by hand in this case? Thanks, TB

[Gfann]

Very good stuff. I am going to study it well and give it a go.
I haven't got to it yet. I was pretty wiped out yesterday. But I think I'll be on it today though in a bit.

[Gfann]

The motor does turn by hand.

It gets tougher at the top stroke. When you take the plug out or the head off the valves and piston will move seemingly fine when you run it off the starter gen'. I'm going to have to take the head off again to set the valves right sense I evidently put that all cattywampus. I'll shoot some pics to share and see what you guys think of what you see as far as how valves look and whatever else.

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by Gfann

The motor does turn by hand.

It gets tougher at the top stroke. When you take the plug out or the head off the valves and piston will move seemingly fine when you run it off the starter gen'. I'm going to have to take the head off again to set the valves right sense I evidently put that all cattywampus. I'll shoot some pics to share and see what you guys think of what you see as far as how valves look and whatever else.

Why do you need to remove the head to adjust the valves? Just my 2 cents but I think you need to spend some time in the tech library, down load the service manuals for your engine and tractor and read them before you screw something important up and end up costing your self some big $$$

[Gfann]

From what Ive read you need to raise the piston up to the top to set the valves. Id rather not take the head off, so if you have another way I would be happy to learn it.

[Gfann]

If you want to make the $20, then feel free to come over.

Official Invite.

[drglinski]

Originally Posted by sam mac

i'm done, figure it out on your own. Gotta go, see ya.

lots of good info in those.

[johncub7172]

Originally Posted by drglinski

lots of good info in those.

That's a pretty crappy attitude your supporting there. That is a problem with the little circle of "clicks" established here. Enough to aggravate the flys off a buffalo. More worthless opinions fly around here, than actual knowledge, being kind, and respectful. I mean, how many times has he been told to read a manual Dan? And what question did the poster ask that caused a response question? And your two cents is,.......?

See what you get Greg, when you have 10 different repairmen trying to fix the problem. A lot here are too high up on the peg-board, and need to come down a peg or two.

What I do, when trying to figure out a problem IH Cub Cadet related, is to study the Blue Ribbon Service Manual as closely as possible, adjust accordingly, and go from there.

But reading some of these "pop-up" responces are just a joke. Anyone know what the "unspoken" word is?