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#31
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Tony,
The only major issue you will run into with PEX is the same you run into hose with. Since it is flexible, any "droops" in the line will be where the water collects. All piping, hard or flexible, will work like a condenser. (Ask around, I'm sure you have some gents in Virginia that know all about using copper as a condenser. We have quite a few here in North Carolina :biggrin2.gif ![]() The reason for using the hard pipe is to allow a controlled slope to direct the condensed moisture to a drain leg. PEX could probably work, as long as it will handle the pressure. You would have to spend time with supporting it well enough to eliminate the "droops" |
#32
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If running a air line equipped shop this is one instance that spend the extra money will save you money in the long run. PVC/ CPVC is a bomb waiting to go off, those that want to take the chance I'm not bashing you, but it's shrapnel, shards, needles when it explodes, and you can bet the quality of PVC has went down over the years as well.
Aluminum, or copper would be the best choice, as mentioned it is expensive, but once finished it's set for life. It's also not hard to change around if you would like to add, reroute etc, and unlike PVC it does not become brittle. Black iron rust horrible, and loads up tools, not only that it comes from the factory with gunk in the inside. I'm facing the same exact upgrade as you, and I'm looking at aluminum with some drop rubber (they have some kind of high quality rubber that withstands extremely hot water) for small work stations etc. And table work stations will have a drop aluminum pipe right to it with quick connect.. and the option for the rubber lines. I have a fine air compressor ( ingersoll rand) and I'm ashamed to admit that I have rubber line run as of now. On edit PEX is the word i was looking for, again it's not the best or near best for the main runners, but real handy for small work stations etc) |
#33
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You guys convinced me. I'll go with copper. Being able to set it up to drain properly is a must here in VA. Until I get time to do it, though, I'm still on a 50' rubber air hose.
Got the hydro trans for my 1650 primered this evening. I'll try to remember to post a pic or two tomorrow. If the weather holds, I may get the rear end and frame painted on Monday.
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Tony Stafford, VA 1650, 682... |
#34
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Some pics of the trans, frame, and misc parts after my disastrous effort at using the CC paint. Didn't use the right reducer. I figure the paint job rates a 10 (from ten feet away it looks pretty good! :biggrin2.gif
![]() I'm going to eventually have to sand and repaint it, but it won't be with CC paint. I'll use a good automotive paint from a dealer who can help me get the right reducers and some knowledge about spraying it.
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Tony Stafford, VA 1650, 682... |
#35
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I decided to just go ahead and put my 1650 back together, in spite of the poor paint job. Figure I'll have more time in a couple years to do it right. Right now I need to get it back together and get it working. I have replaced everything that needed replacing and repaired what needed fixed. It's just the paint job that I'm not happy with.
The only parts I lack to finish it are a hood and a fender pan. My hood is salvageable, but I can get a good one cheap enough to make fixing mine not worth the effort. My fender pan was way beyond the point of no return. I have located a couple here locally, but the folks think they are gold-filled or something. Just gotta keep my eyes open.
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Tony Stafford, VA 1650, 682... |
#36
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it was mentioned there is a new/better quietline muffler? whats this about
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