Dave's 1650 Project

[CC1650Dave]

Originally Posted by Matt G.

If you are in there that far I would get some valve grinding compound and grind both valves so you for sure don't have to get in there again. You will also have to re-adjust the valves again after that.

That spot on the piston isn't good, but as long as it doesn't go all the way down to the ring I wouldn't worry too much at the moment. I would put some oil between the piston and bore to make sure any oven cleaner that got down there doesn't cause any problems. I would also recommend cleaning the cooling fins on the cylinder after you get the engine bolted back together; I see a bunch of crap in the fins in the pics of your valve adjustments. If you haven't already, I'd remove the flywheel shroud and clean the fins on that side, and remove any grass/mouse debris that might be in there.

The PTO switch has a safety interlock so you can't turn the tractor on if the PTO is on. If you don't want to lose that functionality you'll need the correct replacement switch, which is only about $30 IIRC.

The F/R control is probably just rusted stuck from sitting. There's a big nut on one side of the dash tower that is on the F/R shaft. Loosen that all the way; it should either come loose by doing that, or come loose easier.

I would also recommend making a brace for the muffler, as it'll crack/break the aluminum muffler box if it hasn't already.

eek - grinding valves...sounds a little scary to me. I used to own a precision turning company, so I'm a little leery of taking a relatively precise angle on a round piece of metal to a grinding wheel. I think I lack the right tools for such a job. Maybe I should take them to someone local to have them done, but if I did, shouldn't the seats be ground to match as well?

I think that spot you're talking about in the piston is its identifying notch. I read that it was manufactured that way, to designate that side toward the flywheel. I certainly didn't do that in my cleaning! In fact, the little spot I hit with the wheel is really not even visible in the pics. I stopped sweating that 30 seconds after I mentioned it...

I have been cleaning out the fins since that picture. Shortly after I get it put back together for a test run, the motor's coming all the way out, so I'll really clean it then.

What's the best way to clean up those fins anyway? Can you get them back to smooth and shiny (vs rusty and ugly?)

Good advice on the controls and muffler brace. I'll fabricate one for it. I don't think that aluminum was cracked, but I'll take a look at it.

Thanks Matt G!

And thanks for the compliment Methos. I try to be thorough because the instructional stuff with pics has been so helpful for me.

[Matt G.]

That isn't quite what I meant. No power tools are necessary- use valve grinding compound. Remove the keepers and springs, pull the valve out, put some of the valve grinding compound on the sealing surface of the valve (making absolutely certain you don't get any at all on the stem or in the guide) and then put it back in place. Rotate it back and forth through 90 degrees a few times while applying light downward pressure, turn it one direction 90 degrees, then back and forth again, then rotate it another 90 degrees, etc until you've gone all the way around in a circle. (If that's confusing let me know and I'll try again) Pull the valve back out, clean off all of the valve grinding compound with a rag. If you have a uniform shiny circle on both the valve and the seat, you're done- clean off any remaining valve grinding compound with a rag and mineral spirits, and re-lube the valve stem. Once again, make sure you didn't get any valve grinding compound on the stem or in the guide, or you'll need new valves and guides in a hurry. Do that to both valves, reset the valve lash, and you'll be all set.

What I usually do to clean my engines is use degreaser and a water hose, putty knife, brush, etc. after removing all tinwork and duct-taping over the carb, exhaust, and breather so I don't get water in the engine, and then I just scrub it until I'm satisfied with its cleanliness. You can also pressure wash it if you are careful to stay away from crank seals, the breather, and anything electrical. You are pretty much stuck with the rust; if you were to get it down to shiny metal, it would rust again in a hurry from the heat generated by the engine when it is running. As long as you get the dirt and grease out of there, everything will be fine. Bare iron would transfer heat the best, but it won't stay bare, so you'll just have to live with the rust, or clean it all off and paint it with high-temp paint, which would probably be hard unless you tore the motor completely down and had the block hot-tanked or something. Anything is better for cooling that dirt mixed with cooked-on oil, so whatever cleaning you can do will be an improvement, nonetheless.

[CC1650Dave]

Ah, yeah. I did read about that valve procedure Matt (probably on your site.) I think I'll do it, since I want to pull those valves out and clean a little more anyway.

I'm going to pick up a good brush to get into those fins tomorrow. I can't think of anything I have that would be suitable.

[CC1650Dave]

Just realized I never got a pic of the head after the oven cleaner. I let it soak for 20 minutes or so, then scrubbed again with a little fine steel wool. I still have some work to do on the gasket surfaces, including the glass / sandpaper bit.

Here's a before and after to remember how it looked when I took it off:



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[CC1650Dave]

Today I worked mostly on tins and brackets, not a lot that's interesting to report there. However, I did want to pass on this one little tip. I started cleaning them up with this flap wheel disc on my 3/8" drill.

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It's just fantastic for this stuff. Very fast, not too harsh. They clean off all the grime, and will remove rust and paint if you work it a little more. You can hold a part in one hand and clean with the other, and it's not going to rip you up if you bump your hand.

As you can see, mine's pretty worn out, so I'll pick up a new one tomorrow. Here's the gas tank brackets, one before cleaning, the other after hitting it with the wheel. It only takes a few minutes:

[_DX3_]

Great Idea on the flap wheel. What grit are you using?

[CC1650Dave]

I had it sitting in the toolbox and didn't check it before I wore it down, but I know it's a higher grit, probably in the 300-400 range. It even did a great job stripping away gummy sticky stuff, like the residue from rubber trim.

[_DX3_]

Think I need to stock up on some of those for when I do my deck. Thanks.

[CC1650Dave]

OK, so I need to get a valve spring compressing tool. Looking around on the web, I see two different styles. I'll call them "scissor" and "c-clamp." Check out the pics;

C-Clamp:



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Scissor:



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Anyone have experience working with both of these? My initial impression is that the scissor style looks like it's much easier to work with since you don't have to have that clamp slipping around. Plus, the scissor style holds the whole thing together while you reassemble it. Thoughts?

Darn the expenses...

[_DX3_]

I actually like the C clamp myself but I used the bottom style on my 128 this time around. with the C clamp your place the flat end on top of the valve and the lower jars up under the keeper retainer cup. Adjust the clamp down till the keepers are visible and are able to be removed. It works just like vice grips. Adjust tension and squeeze handle closed to lock in place. Adjust till you get it just right.

With the scissor style slide one jaw up high on the spring and the lower jaw under the keeper retainer cup. Close it and remover the keepers. Just be careful is and when it slips off .

On a side note, a $5 door spring compressor at your local auto parts store works just as good. Is what my spring compressor is.

Hope this makes some sense?