Dave's 1650 Project - Page 38

Matt G. · #**371** 09-02-2011, 07:43 AM

When you are seating a bearing, the sound it makes when you tap on it radically changes when you seat it.

Try the gasket AND both shims...

CC1650Dave · #**372** 09-02-2011, 11:26 AM

I wasn't clear on that - the first try was gasket and two shims.

I just realized my thinking was backward last night on shimming. More shims = more play in this scenario.

So if my first try with a gasket and two shims was snug, removing the shims and going gasket only is bound to be even more snug.

Matt G. · #**373** 09-02-2011, 05:25 PM

If that's the case, you might need more shims. How many did you remove when you disassembled the engine? Unless you changed the bearings, you should need the same amount of each for reassembly this time?

CC1650Dave · #**374** 09-06-2011, 04:00 PM

I don't know how many shims were on there originally. It's not something I thought to check, because I just thought it was a gasket I'd be throwing away and replacing.

So right now I'm on hold waiting for parts again. I pinched the points wire between the bearing plate while trying to put it together the second time, and ruined the gasket.

That's the worst thing about working on this stuff. Every time you find something that needs replacing, or you mess something up, you're on hold for 2-5 days waiting for parts - when you really want to put it together...

_DX3_ · #**375** 09-06-2011, 04:45 PM

Patience, grasshopper....

CC1650Dave · #**376** 09-09-2011, 06:39 PM

Is there any way to get these crank seals in to the K341 without the special tool? I can't see it.

Sooo frustrating.

Wondering if there's a generic kit I can get a Harbor Freight or something.

_DX3_ · #**377** 09-09-2011, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CC1650Dave

Is there any way to get these crank seals in to the K341 without the special tool? I can't see it.

Sooo frustrating.

Wondering if there's a generic kit I can get a Harbor Freight or something.

a long piece (12") or so of PVC pipe with a diameter of the outside of the seal, a piece of wood over the end and a weighted mallet.

CC1650Dave · #**378** 09-09-2011, 06:56 PM

That's what I was just sitting here thinking. Have to go to Home Depot and see if there's a piece with a 2" OD.

CC1650Dave · #**379** 09-10-2011, 10:15 PM

Getting the K341 mostly put back together today. I'll post steps and pics later - but I just wanted to note that I did the static timing on the bench, and I've got it about perfect.

And the points gap is around .038" (!)

Matt says .020 is rarely ever the correct setting for these things, but dang - that's a long way off. Any red lights here (as in, something is wrong it shouldn't be that far off) or is this result within the normal range?

Methos · #**380** 09-10-2011, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CC1650Dave

Getting the K341 mostly put back together today. I'll post steps and pics later - but I just wanted to note that I did the static timing on the bench, and I've got it about perfect.

And the points gap is around .038" (!)

Matt says .020 is rarely ever the correct setting for these things, but dang - that's a long way off. Any red lights here (as in, something is wrong it shouldn't be that far off) or is this result within the normal range?

I'm glad you got it set dead on!

Doesn't matter what the gap is as long as you've done your job with the static timing. I've never checked any gapping after doing the static timing. Never seen the point.