Dave's 1650 Project - Page 37

CC1650Dave · #**361** 08-27-2011, 02:20 AM

That's very kind superduty5.9, thanks. I'll assume by "meticulous" you're referring to my computer work, and not necessarily my mechanical stuff.

When it comes to computer stuff, I keep banging away until I get it right - and my mistakes are usually much more easily fixable.

That's cool that your kids are so into the tractors. Ryan's a bit young, but he's been sitting on the 1450 and getting all happy with the steering wheel, so he'll get it.

CC1650Dave · #**362** 08-27-2011, 02:24 AM

While reading about the front driveshaft flange on another thread, I went out to take a look at the 1650's flange. It's shot. I can remove the ball from the flange:

This is one of the parts that gets destroyed when your ISO mounts wear out, along with your flex discs. The 1450 has a new one that was put in this Spring by the PO at the dealer. Part cost was $40.

Methos · #**363** 08-27-2011, 10:37 AM

Dave you can replace just the bushing ball. Parts look up has them listed for $27. There is a thread that talks about being able to buy them in bulk for a lot less but there is a min order.

CC1650Dave · #**364** 08-27-2011, 11:14 AM

I saw that Duke, but I was concerned that it was kind of a band-aid over the problem.

It seems to me that if the ball is worn out, the plate would have to be as well. I haven't checked out a new one, but can you remove the ball from it? I kind of envision it being stamped together in manufacturing, so the ball can't come out until it's shot.

Matt G. · #**365** 08-27-2011, 11:41 AM

The plate can't wear out unless the bolts are loose or something. The ball bushing is a two-piece part that is pressed into the plate. The ball and race come as an assembly. It is certainly not a 'band-aid' fix.

superG · #**366** 08-29-2011, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CC1650Dave

I only have a plumbers torch, and I did use it on that stuck one. I don't even know if that thing will get something to a dull red (?) but I kept it on long enough to get it hot.

Great thread! I haven't read through everything yet, but with all those rusty bits and having difficulty getting them apart, I thought I'd throw in this tidbit: a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. I've used this trick on rusty bolts that PB blaster wasn't able to loosen. Just my $.02

Matt G. · #**367** 08-29-2011, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superG

Great thread! I haven't read through everything yet, but with all those rusty bits and having difficulty getting them apart, I thought I'd throw in this tidbit: a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. I've used this trick on rusty bolts that PB blaster wasn't able to loosen. Just my $.02

Which type of ATF did you use? I tried this once, and it did not work at all. I was very unimpressed.

superG · #**368** 08-29-2011, 09:46 PM

It was synthetic ATF, I think from Valvoline. This was a number of years ago. I had the bottle left over from working on my Subaru SVX (rest in peace). I was replacing the old rotors and the retaining screw didn't want to release. PB Blaster didn't seem to have an effect. Someone told me about the 50/50 mix, so I tried it in a spray bottle and voila. I have since heard of this from a number of other people and they all swear by it. YMMV, of course :-)

CC1650Dave · #**369** 09-02-2011, 01:51 AM

I'll have to give it a try sometime superG, thanks!

CC1650Dave · #**370** 09-02-2011, 01:54 AM

Back to work on putting the K341 back together, I'm running into a small issue:

When I installed the bearing plate with two of the paper shims and torqued it to 35lbs, I had NO play in the crankshaft, so I couldn't get a feeler gauge in there at all.

So I took it back apart and went with the gasket only, no shims - and I still have no play.

The only thing I can deduce is that one of the main bearings must not be seated all the way in, is that what you guys think? And how the heck do you know when it's all the way in? I don't want to keep beating on it...