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#21
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I spent some time on the tank last night. First I poured a couple tablespoons of Simple Green and water into the tank. I put the cap on, plugged the threaded nipple with my finger and shook it for a while. With the garden hose I filled the tank until it overflowed and then let it drain a couple times. When it was full of water I plugged the bottom hole with my finger and watched for leakage. There were a few leaks right where the threaded tube is attached to the flange that is soldered to the tank.
I drained the water and blew air through the tank with the exhaust from my shop vac. After that I piped some exhaust from my '70 F350 (the dirtiest exhaust in the driveway for sure) into the tank. After all that I figured I could work on the tank without much fear of explosion. With a wire wheel on my Dremel tool I cleaned the area thoroughly. I smeared flux around all the suspect joints and went at it with MAPP torch. I was surprised how much heat I needed to work the silver solder, but I was able to lay a nice bead around the suspect area. After some cooling time, I chipped the flux off and did some clean up with the Dremel tool again. I filled the tank with some water, plugged the hole with my finger and watched. No leak. After shaking as much water out as I could, I threaded the valve/glass bowl assembly back onto the tank and closed the valve. I put about a cup of gas in the tank and checked for leakage. Still holding. I dumped the water gas mix and refilled the tank with some more gas. I left it out side over night and there is still no leakage. I guess I have fixed the tank. I still have to get some paint on the tank where the torch burned it off and I will be replacing the valve/glass bowl assembly before I put it back on the tractor. Looks like I have fixed my leak with minimal expense and without any explosive gas fume mishaps. Thanks to all for your input.
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Steve, Former multiple 149 owner. Left the tractors back east when we moved to Nevada. One went to South Jersey, the other to Long Island. |
#22
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talking of silver solder, my dad worked at westinghouse for 40+ years in the copper shop and over time some of the extra silver solder found its way home here.:biggrin2.gif:
there are 2 main types that i have on hand the first comes in a round rod form and when heated it tends to flow and fill gaps and the second is a squared rod type that you can bild up and fill in with. also have a limited amount of a third version that is a thin paper like wafer, he said when you had 2 large flat surfaces you would lay this between thme and heat it up and when done was welded fully on the inside |
#23
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Here is a pict., I guess I did use white tape....no leaks yet.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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