1450 Transmission Question

[NiasNeb]

The panels are off now. Clearly this thing needs engine mounts. The left side is not even present. I'm pulling the motor out and replacing the engine mounts. Hopefully the PO's didn't damage anything else running it like this.

As far as the rear goes I'll try the JB Weld job first. If that doesn't work I'll go to the next step. I won't stop till it doesn't leak. Still a slow leak is better than a loose engine. I can always add a little oil.

I remember seeing a thread on engine mounts so I'll go hunt that down and get them ordered.

[_DX3_]

You may want to definitely check you drive shaft and the drive shaft bushings at each end if the motor mounts are shot. Mine were shot and had to replace the bushings and rag joints and had to make a new drive shaft. Used two rag joints in the transmission end and one at the motor.

[johncub7172]

Originally Posted by jeffscub

IMO, i would change dealers if he thought your mower had a engine oil filter. as far as your dilema on the chunk goes, if you could find someone who could "honestly" weld cast iron, you could redrill the hole and retap it back to the original thread. just a thought....... jeff

I'am no welder, but someone told me the trick to welding cast iron would be to heat area with a torch untill very hot, then weld it. The only thing I welded was plate for floor in the Mack-dumps.

[CMA's129]

I gave up on Jb a long time ago, it's to messy. This epoxy putty from Harvey's works great. There is three different types now one for plastic, a fast setting for metal and a super strong one for metal that needs to set for twelve hours. It works great, stays right where you put it and drills and taps really well. You can also spray some Crisco on the threads of a bolt and mold it right over the threads and after it sets up just twist the bolt out and it leaves the perfect threads behind. I buy it at the plumbing supply store. I think the extra strength one is a different brand.

As far as welding cast for me it's been a matter of quality iron good stuff will weld great and cheap crap just explodes into sparks most will weld well with nickle but its harder than Gibraltar and does not take to threading. Some you can weld well with Nomacast and it is machinable. The idea behind preheating is so that when your welding a certain area it will not expand more than the rest the piece you working and make more cracks. This usually happens during cool down, your weld will lay down great and look nice but as you stand and admire your handy work you here a load ping! Then your body fills with anxiety when the giant crack appears about an inch from you beautiful weld. To counter this you need to preheat and cool slowly under a hot bed of sand.
But enough of welding school for none of this happens when you are doing small spot repairs just be careful not to get it real hot. Just lay a little in there and wait ten minutes then repeat.

http://www.wmharvey.com/prod/cat4/pep/epoxy.php

[jeffscub]

Originally Posted by johncub7172

I'am no welder, but someone told me the trick to welding cast iron would be to heat area with a torch untill very hot, then weld it. The only thing I welded was plate for floor in the Mack-dumps.

very rarely do we weld cast at my shop, but when we do, we normally use nickel rod and vary the rod diameter depending on thickness of the material. also, we don't heat the cast using that technique, but i have seen that done and it is amazing at the results. my front axle is welded up with nickel and is holding tough. jeff

[NiasNeb]

I've been able to get a closer look at my engine mounts (or lack thereof). The one in the left rear is complete missing the lower rubber. The rest have some form of rubber left.

Question of the day. To remove the engine do I need to remove the four bolts that screw into the oil pan or do I somehow get something on the four bolts ISO Mounts? The front two look easy enough but the back two look challenging. For the former I'd need to remove the front axle somehow to get the front ones off.

[Matt G.]

Remove the bolts that go into the oil pan, remove the engine, and then remove the mount rails. You don't have to take off the axle, just jack up the front of the tractor and pivot the axle away from whichever side you are removing the bolt from.

[NiasNeb]

I was just gonna post "NM" I found in the service panel that I can jack up the front end to get access to those two bolts.

You beat me to it though. :P Thanks!!

[NiasNeb]

Today the engine finally came out. Here is a photo of what the engine mounts looked like. I think they'll be fine for another 20 years (give or take 25 years). The noise I was hearing was the top of the motor hitting the frame. No other damage was found.

I'm going to make the frame rail adjustment to the engine mount and put it all back together. The front mounting bolt on the left side wasn't even there (the one that goes up into the oil pan). I'll have to go buy another one. Nothing was broke off inside the motor so some PO probably couldn't get it back in there. The rear one on the left side was just finger tight.

I'm a little concerned about getting the front oil pan bolts back in but I'm going to try one of those universal joint socket deals and see if I can get that in there. I only have mounts for one side so waiting on the other parts to arrive.

I didn't make it back to the rear to resolve that issue. I might just wait on that for awhile until I get the engine running good. I hope the parts come in soon because there sure is a mess in the garage and I have to remember where everything goes so it looks similar to the tractor I started with when I'm done.

[NiasNeb]

Originally Posted by jeffscub

IMO, i would change dealers if he thought your mower had a engine oil filter...

I made that official today. I was reminded today that my local Dixon dealer who I really enjoy doing business with is also an IH/CC dealer that supports my CC. I was tickled when I realized that. I almost asked them for an oil filter today when I was there...just to see what happened.