Is this PTO salvageable?

[ironman]

Originally Posted by Grandpa53

Is basket pulley in alignment with starter/generator pulley? If it is, either clutch has shifted or the missing pieces of the disc could possibly be wedged between clutch pulley and pressure plate. If that's the case you'll need to cut new access holes/notches to get set screws out or block crankshaft from turning and try rotating clutch to get pieces to hopefully dislodge. GOOD LUCK!

When everything is working as should, and the PTO is NOT engaged, Pulley A will spin with the engine and pulley B will not spin at all.
Then when you engage the PTO lever they both spin together.
So don't expect them both to be in the same alignment every time you look at them.
To align holes with screws, simply disengage PTO and rotate one pulley or the other into alignment.

[spndncash]

Originally Posted by Coolkp

you hit the nail on the head, after trying to get it to rotate with out luck, I broke off all the remaining tabs and could rotate it to line basket notches with the holes. Thankfully the set screws came out okay. And yes there was a piece of the disc wedge in between the disc and plate. so now just have to order the parts, @spndncash, yeah I noticed the screws are different too, so think need to order all new parts instead of just the new disc.

I am by no means a stickler for OEM. But I would recommend a critical inspection of the parts already installed. I bought my parts from the site sponsors. I use a tiller, a home made leaf blower, pto driven generator and a pto driven compressor. I have never had any clutch issues after the rebuild. For my 106 I removed the front end loader, the hood/hood support/grill. So I only was willing to do this once - I turned my clutch surfaces while I was there- just to dress/true them.

[Coolkp]

Originally Posted by ironman

When everything is working as should, and the PTO is NOT engaged, Pulley A will spin with the engine and pulley B will not spin at all.
Then when you engage the PTO lever they both spin together.
So don't expect them both to be in the same alignment every time you look at them.
To align holes with screws, simply disengage PTO and rotate one pulley or the other into alignment.

The 122 was working fine until using it to till the garden, then when using it again they would not spin independently when Not engaged. The Cub Cadet 70 and 100 PTOs both work fine.

when finally got it off it had a piece of broken disc wedge in it. so it was always engaged.

Another question should the pressure spring be pretty well flat, instead of concaved see picture, guessing would not hurt to replace it too. thanks again for everyone's input

Oh sorry did not mean hijack post from @sonofsquink

[Grandpa53]

Should be pretty flat. I would try flattening it. If you do try to flatten it do not use heat or hit it with a hammer. Would be best to get a new one if funds allow.

[Coolkp]

Originally Posted by Grandpa53

Should be pretty flat. I would try flattening it. If you do try to flatten it do not use heat or hit it with a hammer. Would be best to get a new one if funds allow.

Thanks, yeah old parts, NOS, and re-manufactured parts are a little pricy... to rebuild it with replacing most of the parts is ~$200.00

[sonofsquink]

So I am still not having any luck. Got the new wear buttons today, installed that and the pto again, gapped the distance between the wear and thrust button at about .015, and I still can't get it to disengage. I had to tighten the rod so much to get the pto to stop spinning that it started throwing brass shavings everywhere.

I also noticed that the original setup had dual friction discs, and the new one that came with the kit is significantly less thick.

I don't know what to do here, so any suggestions would help.

[ironman]

Is your PTO bearing installed flush with the end of the crankshaft as it is in this picture??

[sonofsquink]

Originally Posted by ironman

Is your PTO bearing installed flush with the end of the crankshaft as it is in this picture??

I believe so - I also used a dead-blow hammer to make sure it's fully seated

[Billy-O]

It just seems to me the bearing is sliding back on the crankshaft. Once that happens, any adjustments on the thrust buttons is useless. Are you using the locking collar? When you are tightening the crap out of the buttons to disengage the PTO, you are thrusting it into the end of crankshaft....just wasting time and buttons. Pull the PTO and make note where the bearing is sitting now!

That bearing should sit flush with the end of crankshaft and locked in with a concentric type locking collar. The crankshaft should be cleaned off any grease or wrap.

Other than that, are you using back lock nuts against the other nuts on the three screws for the fingers? They need to be as tight as you can make 'em with stripping the threads.

[sonofsquink]

Originally Posted by Billy-O

It just seems to me the bearing is sliding back on the crankshaft. Once that happens, any adjustments on the thrust bearings is useless. Are you using the locking collar? When you are tightening the crap out of the buttons to disengage the PTO, you are thrusting it into the end of crankshaft....just wasting time and buttons. Pull the PTO and make note where the bearing is sitting now!

That bearing should sit flush with the end of crankshaft and locked in with a concentric type locking collar. The crankshaft should be cleaned off any grease or wrap.

Other than that, are you using back lock nuts against the other nuts on the three screws for the fingers? They need to be as tight as you can make 'em with stripping the threads.

I just popped it back off - it looks like it's flush but there is some wear on the end of the shaft. Doesn't have any back-and-forth play. The lock nuts are as tight as I could possibly get them.