New Guy Just Picked up a 149 for $75

[Mike1450]

Look to me in the picture that there are a few teeth in the balance gear that are chipped or maybe thats the lighting

[ajs96]

Originally Posted by Mike1450

Look to me in the picture that there are a few teeth in the balance gear that are chipped or maybe thats the lighting

It's funny you say thought because when i watched the video after i posted it i thought the same thing...so much so that i went out to the garage to look. No chipped teeth, just the lighting.

[ajs96]

I suppose i just got even deeper into the good 'ol Kohler 14hp.

Well, i thought i would just run out to the garage and pull the balance gears, but no such luck. The lower gear is very simple to remove, but the top one is a no go on a 14hp.

There is no way that upper gear is going to come out unless either the crank is removed or the 2-3cm iron nipple is cut off the wall of the block. It is at least 7-8mm short of being able to be removed as is. The nipple i am talking about can be seen on the bottom wall of the photo in my earlier post, just to the right of the balance gear.

[Matt G.]

You can't cut that off...that's a bolt hole for the starter/generator bracket. You basically have two options:

1. Use a sharp cold chisel and hammer to break that gear on the thin side between the webs, clean out all the shards, add a magnetic drain plug, and hope no shrapnel got where it shouldn't have.

2. Take out the crank and do it the right way.

I have done #1 but would recommend #2 since you need to replace the rod anyway; you'll be halfway there. That way you can measure the crankpin and bore and piston and determine if you can get by with a set of rings or if you need an overbore and oversize piston. I would also replace the governor gear and cross shaft and brass nut if you take it apart that far.

[ajs96]

Originally Posted by Matt G.

You can't cut that off...that's a bolt hole for the starter/generator bracket. You basically have two options:

1. Use a sharp cold chisel and hammer to break that gear on the thin side between the webs, clean out all the shards, add a magnetic drain plug, and hope no shrapnel got where it shouldn't have.

2. Take out the crank and do it the right way.

I have done #1 but would recommend #2 since you need to replace the rod anyway; you'll be halfway there. That way you can measure the crankpin and bore and piston and determine if you can get by with a set of rings or if you need an overbore and oversize piston. I would also replace the governor gear and cross shaft and brass nut if you take it apart that far.

I was being facetious about cutting off the nipple...but i am certainly going with option #2, i don't have time to redo things these days so it needs to be done right the first time. I'll start going through the Kohler manual and tear it down in the next couple days whenever i can find a couple of hours to burn. If i can stay out of a machine shop i wwill be happy, that is my new goal.

[goony]

Yes, do locate a cast iron pan.

I had one bolt come out of mine (K301 12hp in a 128) after about 20 years of use, I discovered that I had an aluminum pan. It looked like someone had done a helicoil on it before.

I tried to cheap out and get another aluminum one from an eBay dude that promised the "holes were just fine". Well, they were not. I ended up getting a cast iron pan, used new grade 8 bolts and lock washers, new pan gasket, and a thin film of "Ultra Blue" Permatex sealer on the pan and the motor bottom.

It's 100% now and will be for another 20 years or more.

[ACecil]

I agree with Goony. Get a cast iron oil pan, you won't regret it.

[ajs96]

I did go ahead and pick up a cast iron pan off of ebay for about $20 including shipping. It's pretty amazing the weight and burly difference between the aluminum and the cast iron.

The 149 is currently a little bit busy being completely torn down. This is from a few nights ago, but it's now down to only a frame. I never could get the hydraulics to work correctly with the drill (my other posting) and that worries me a little bit, but i am going forward with it.

[ACecil]

Thanks for the update. Looking forward to more!

[ajs96]

Since i now have it down to just the frame/hydro/rear-end, i have have a few more questions. Every single linkage related to the hydro/tranny just seems really sloppy to me.

I have run across a thread where is discusses shimming one of the pivot points, but would it be good to shim all the linkages to tighten them up or is there a certain amount slip that is necessary?

There is short video below showing slop in the hydro linkage as well as the 3-pt/deck mechanism. What is the purpose of the removable end link where the rear of the cylinder hooks up?

I am going to have at least a few more questions about the function of a few things, i am not sure if it's best to just post them all at once or drop them one-by-one.



Click Picture Below for Linkage Video: