Steering rebuild

[tobo127]

Originally Posted by Roy Najecki

Grant,

I believe there were two manufacturers of the steering column. So depending upon the one you have the cover with foam seal can be $42 (left photo) or $11 (right photo). I think the $11 part is more common.

I used some sheet foam similar to what that they use for a sill sealer on foundations under the sill plate. Seemed to be just the right thickness and my metal ring was fine. Cut the profile to fit the ring. I figured, what the heck, if it doesn't work, what's the worst that could happen. It's not like it's going to cause the engine to seize or the tractor to flip over. So a little grease leaks out, it'll keep the surroundings from rusting. Actually, so far it's working out just fine, and the price was right.........$0.

[mortten]

Early 122's used the earlier style gasket and retainer. I just redid mine. I think by the time the 123's came out it had the newer style. I used foam truck cap tape for a gasket. The nyloc nut needs to be a low profile. A regular one is too tall. The nylon won't reach the threads. I got mine at Ace Hardware.

[mattop]

Another question I thought of after studying my Cub; does it make sense to clean everything up as much as possible, without taking the steering column out of the tractor, and just replace the nut on the steering box with a bearing a be done? How imperative is it to tear the whole thing down?

[olds45512]

Originally Posted by mattop

Another question I thought of after studying my Cub; does it make sense to clean everything up as much as possible, without taking the steering column out of the tractor, and just replace the nut on the steering box with a bearing a be done? How imperative is it to tear the whole thing down?

I always like to tear mine completely apart and clean out all the old sticky grease, they will turn much smoother when there properly adjusted and has freash grease.

[Yosemite Sam]

There is a good possibility that you will find badly worn parts that need to be replaced in the gearbox when you take it apart.

I never put a steering gear back together without putting new retainer cups back in (part 9 in the exploded view from the link below) there are 2 of them.

http://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-c...r-connections/

Not much sense in adding new parts to make it work easier if there are bad/broken parts still inside causing it to be hard to turn...

[Sammidog]

I put one of those bearings in the steering of my 149 and I almost think it's harder to steer now than before. Certainly no easier that's for sure.

[mattop]

Why do you think it is harder to steer? Is there too much pressure on the thrust bearing from the lock nut?

[Merk]

Originally Posted by Matt G.

I don't think they do. You can use a CC front wheel bearing if you wrap a piece of shim stock around the OD.

One comment about that thrust bearing in Merk's thread...it's totally open and will get dirty more easily, and that'll make it turn hard, and then you're back where you were again. The (shielded) thrust bearing most people use is a 'Nice 605' and any good bearing supply place can get it. The last time I bought a few, they were less than $2 each.

Been using the bearing set up for 7 years. No hard steering Cubs.

[Alvy]

Glad this 5 year old thread was resurrected, I got some good numbers out if it

[twoton]

Originally Posted by Alvy

Glad this 5 year old thread was resurrected, I got some good numbers out if it

Yeah, me too, picked up that bearing for the top of the steering column yesterday morning at the hardware store. Now maybe someone will resurrect the "how to pull your steering wheel" thread.