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  #21  
Old 06-03-2020, 10:09 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Quote:
Also, does that cork gasket between the pump and rear end tend to leak
After 40+ years of use, YES, they tend to leak.
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  #22  
Old 06-04-2020, 09:30 AM
mik125 mik125 is offline
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How much oil will come out of the hydro lift lines when I disconnect from the pump?
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  #23  
Old 06-04-2020, 10:14 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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a few ounces.
I find it easy to slide the hydro/rear housing together out the back and
set it on wood blocks supporting the rear cover area.
With the hydro input shaft pointing up, you can remove the hydro, replace the gasket and reinstall it on the rear housing with minimal oil loss, and easy access to the bolts and suction line.
Then slide the assy back into the tractor and hook everything back up.
It helps to use a floor jack under the assembly to slide it out/back in but we are not talking a vehicle engine or transmission here, just a lawnmower.
Those inexpensive sheet metal drain pans work well to keep oil off the shop floor if one so desires.
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  #24  
Old 06-04-2020, 11:49 AM
mik125 mik125 is offline
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perfect, might get away with just topping it off. I was concerned about those deck lift lines.

On that suction line, once I have it tipped over, which joint should I open to remove the pump?

Im thinking I dont want to mess with a ferrule unless I have too. And if I do, should I replace the ferrule, what size is that nut and ferrule?
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  #25  
Old 06-04-2020, 05:24 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Unscrew the nut on the hydro,when it is out and upright, also loosen the nut
on the compression fitting so you can take the nut off at the hydro.
Without loosing the compression ferrule nut you would have to distort the suction tube, that could lead to additional work/problems.
No you need not replace the ferrule, and when all is done just snug till it don't leak as you don't want to unnecessarily distort the tube/ferrule.
Do check the round expandable plug between mating surfaces of the hydro/
rear housing and suction tube, as they do leak and it is not uncommon to replace the cork gasket only to have the leak remain at the expandable plug.
it is about the size of a fifty cent piece.
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  #26  
Old 06-04-2020, 05:37 PM
mik125 mik125 is offline
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Thanks alot George.

I have the older suction tube setup with the elbow fitting. When you say "nut at the hydro" do you mean the nut at the bottom connected to the sump or the nut at the pump? I was thinking both were compression fittings. Im guessing I dont have to run the tractor to see if its going to leak at one of those compression fittings.

and btw, i was looking at that expansion plug. After I dusted everything, its apparent the gasket is the wet location. The plug stayed dry so I was thinking of just coating the seam of the expansion plug with gasket sealer or something and calling it good.
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  #27  
Old 06-04-2020, 05:37 PM
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sorner sorner is offline
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I have a bunch of those plugs. I bought a pack of 10 when I replaced one of mine. They're 2 1/4".

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...031/22140453-P

I agree, taking it out and standing it up on it's back saves you from having to dump the fluid. Just keep it clean.
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  #28  
Old 06-04-2020, 07:09 PM
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No need coating the expansion plug, would do no good if it was leaking.
The fitting at the hydro unit is a *37 flair fitting just like any hyd fitting, that is the one you want to separate.
also loosen the other fitting (at the rear casting) to give looseness so you don't have to bend the tube.
and Sorner has you covered if you needed to replace the expansion plug but I think they are still available.
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  #29  
Old 06-06-2020, 07:54 AM
mik125 mik125 is offline
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Im going to give this a shot over the weekend.

Im just trying to figure out how to flip it over so i canremove the pump. I have no helper.


If i roll it out on the tires with a crescent wrench or if i roll it out on a jack.... whats the best way to flip it upright? Im wondering how much space will be between the diff cover and the floor so i can use blocks or a cindetblock maybe.
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  #30  
Old 06-06-2020, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mik125 View Post
Im going to give this a shot over the weekend.

Im just trying to figure out how to flip it over so i canremove the pump. I have no helper.


If i roll it out on the tires with a crescent wrench or if i roll it out on a jack.... whats the best way to flip it upright? Im wondering how much space will be between the diff cover and the floor so i can use blocks or a cindetblock maybe.
Thinking a cement block is too high but a tape measure held on the rear cover, and sighted approx across the rear tires is going to be a close approximation, yes?
Once it is out, just pick up the input shaft or filter and rotate it upwards like standing a 5 gal pail up from laying on it's side.
these things are not that heavy, it's a garden tractor, not a 20,000 pound farm tractor.
You are not bear hugging it and power lifting it, you are rotating it like standing up a 2 wheel, wheel barrow
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