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#21
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That is what I thought you meant. Around here if you do not have a transfer switch, they get very upset.
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
#22
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1 1/4" PVC conduit and also drop a 1/2" or 3/4" PVC conduit in the trench. The 1 1/4" will handle up to a 100 Amp wire and the smaller conduit used for and low voltage line later. Phone, cable, alarm or anything else. PVC is cheap you can start with small wire now and upgrade later. On the generator a sub-panel and one of these.
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2-1811's 1872 2072 |
#23
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Yeah, if you have a gen set running, you better have a transfer switch, wires or meter pulled. They came and inspected me at the shop one time when I had a gen set running. I didn't have a transfer switch, but I pulled the wires in the panel. They were fine with it then.
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#24
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That's just a double breaker with a mechanical switch that makes it so only one can be on at once. That wouldn't fly around here. Must be a throw switch. As stated, a breaker can backfeed, but a pole switch cannot. It's a hard disconnect. I'd check code, or power company before I'd get one of those. Most places wouldn't allow it.
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#25
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I personally would go with a fully automatic transfer switch.
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
#26
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Never thought about running 240 out there but that does make alot of sense and would certainly give me more air compressor and welder options. Thanks for the input guys!
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#27
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Tim, I'd just run direct burial wire and not piss around with conduit.
Use something like this. https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/...QaAtCUEALw_wcB I'm sure you can get it cheaper locally. I'd also ask a few electricians in your area on the codes. We have a member here that does that for a living that lives near Pittsburg that could probably steer you in the right direction and I'm sure there are others too. I think it would be better to run something like #6UF wire to a 50 amp subpanel so that would give you 120 & 240 in the shop. Here is an example on the issues you may run into. https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/me...r-60a-subpanel
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
#28
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What Oak said... #6 is the proper wire for that distance and amperage.
Not sure I like direct burial for that long a distance tho.
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
#29
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X3. I ran a 50 amp service to an outside receptacle for my generator, used 6 gauge wire and a separate 50a breaker.
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
#30
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In a similar situation, I used a #2 Aluminum service feed (2-2-4 I think) and drove a ground rod, which will carry 100a but fits in a 50a breaker; ran it thru 1 1/4 conduit. I can upgrade to 100 amp just by switching the breakers when I expand the shop.
That being said, I have 200a to the house due to no longer used resistant baseboard heaters (120a worth ![]() The old feed to the shop was 3 wires on one breaker plus a 12/3 to another...but it was OK because of the garden hose conduit ![]() Yeah, there's no codes or permits out here. |
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