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Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > CCC/MTD Cub Cadet built Tractors (GT)

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  #21  
Old 06-08-2017, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Check the battery and connections. If the starter is going bad, and you jump it, more amps will definitely help it. The very nature of a bad starter is it draws too many amps, so giving a bad starter more amps via jumping with another battery, or using a battery charger will mask the issue. Jumping it proves nothing really.... Testing components does.
I wonder what the life is on the internal brushes, not to mention cleaning the Brush contacts on the stator. The hour meter shows 600+ and I know it wasn't working when I got this tractor.
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  #22  
Old 06-24-2017, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Terry C View Post
I loosen all the motor mount plates bolts, remove the ones on the starter side. Then raise the starter side of the engine about and inch or so. This is all you need to get at the two starter bolts on the end. I used ratcheting wrenches. Just did it in this spring.

I know the general consensus on this site is engine removal but I think this way was easier.
I'm going to give this a shot tomorrow. Lift the engine with Floor Jack under Bracket OR do you Lift from the intake manifold?
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  #23  
Old 06-25-2017, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by zippy1 View Post
How in the heck do you two get the front left bolt in the tins. It's where the two tins attach together at the bottom front of the engine. Then I believe there is another on the lower blower housing...
Are you two circus contortionists or what?
Or, do you bend the shields all to $hi7 to gain access? Inquiring mind wants to know...
I just did the starter in my 782 this morning.
Terry C nailed it!!! With the 3 Bolts taken out of the 'Starter' side Mounting Plate and the other three loose. Plus, take out the Stater side Motor Mount bolts you can do this. After I got the side Tins off, I Slotted those holes you speak of so in the future I do not have to totally remove those hard to get bolts, Just loosen.
You will need a crow bar. Don't get panicky. You are not mangling anything you are just flexing the Tins for temporary clearance. The Front Engine Tin (Facing the rear of the tractor) to get the Lower Starter bolt. And the Rear engine Tin needs a little lift as you push the Starter toward the Front of the Tractor. That area is very tight. In Fact, you need to make sure the Motor mount bolt is down sitting on the Front axle so the back of the Starter can get out of the Bellhousing mount.
Getting the Lower Starter bolt required a 7/16 socket, two 6" extensions with a 'U' joint in between the extensions. That gives you the correct flex to run the sock up from the bottom of the tractor. Yes the screen underbelly has to come down. Starter exits out the front of the tractor.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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