1650 starting issues - Page 3

machinehead323 · #21 03-27-2017, 12:23 PM

Well I am in a bit of a pickle now. I'm now deployed in Qatar and the cub is having problems again. It sounds like it is doing the same thing it did before through video. I'm going to see if she can take some jumper cables and jump the battery to the engine and try that. She did say the ground wire was real warm when I told her to try and wiggle the cables. Before I just took all the connections apart and cleaned wire wheeled and tapped holes. I put diametric compound on everything when reapplying. All I can think of is the cables themselves are corroded inside or have bad terminal connections. The ones at the battery is suspected good cause I soldered new terminals on them. If it's he ground again I would like to do a strait shot to the engine from the battery and ground the chassis separate. Just gonna be a bit involved for my wife to deal with finding wires and wrenching w 2 babies. She is very handy with tools though. What suggestions do y'all have. Anyone know off hand how long of a cable I would need for certain to get from the battery to the starter and have it ran nice?

machinehead323 · #22 03-27-2017, 05:06 PM

This is Machinehead's wife. It is night in Qatar and I am trying to diagnose why I can't get it to start. I tried jumping the battery with jumper cables as per Kevin's instructions this morning with no luck. He wanted me to go ahead and run the new battery cable from the battery to starter, which I did. I applied new diametric compound to the electrical connections and made sure everything was good and tight. There doesn't appear to be any corrosion at all. Which isn't surprising since I have only mowed with it twice since my husband cleaned everything before he left in January. What do I do now? The battery is charged. It won't turn over at all not even intermittently.

Berwil · #23 03-28-2017, 01:12 AM

You ran a wire from the negative battery terminal to a bolt holding the starter to the motor, not the stud that already had a battery cable on it, correct? As long as there is bare metal on the housing of the starter where you mounted the wire, that should solve your ground issue.

Are you sitting in the seat, pressing the brake pedal and the pto switch is off? I ask because it has happened to all of us, even the ones that won't admit it. You could try flipping the pto switch on/off a few times, the contacts inside could be dirty and not making contact. That would result in a no start, no click, nothing condition. Same could be true of the brake pedal switch. Otherwise, I'm not sure what else to tell you short getting out a volt meter/test light and troubleshooting.

Bill

machinehead323 · #24 03-28-2017, 08:38 AM

this is Kevin again. My wife did an outstanding job of getting the cable ran from the negative terminal to the original ground mount at the starter. She then has the body ground running from it to the grill nose. The starter actually engages when the key is turned. it just kinda makes a wha sound and stops. The engine doesn't actually get a crank out of it. It sounds like what it was doing before I left. Post leaving I cleaned all the battery connections and got a new diehard battery. It had been cranking over great and starting within a second of turning on the switch. Now it sounds the same even with a direct ground. I think I have the original starter that was on the engine. I changed it out about 4 years back cause it was making noises. I believe it was still cranking over the engine though. I may have her try that one out. What other things can yall think of? She checks the oil before each use so it shouldn't be locked up from low oil. Before I cleaned all the ground wires back home, I did try myself to directly jump the starter from the battery and it made the same sound. It did not turn the engine over. So things are acting real funny.

machinehead323 · #25 03-28-2017, 02:42 PM

Ok here is what Brystal did today. She changed out the eBay China starter for the original Koehler today ( it was originally changed out because it was making noises but still would start the motor). Once it was changed out it made the same noise. Like the starter would engage but hit a wall and stop. So I had her take out the plug and crank it over. It turned over just fine. She reinstalled the plug and it fired right up. She let it run for a minute or so and stopped it. Everyone full of joy! Then I told her to try it again and the same brick wall. So to me it sounds like it may be up against compression and not being able to muscle through it. The battery is only 2 months old. Ground wire direct to starter. Frame ground direct off starter to grill. All the positive connections were cleaned 2 months ago. 2 months ago I tried jumping both leads direct to the starter and got the same brick wall. I lust wonder if it was a fluke that when I cleaned all the grounds it started working again but had enough rotation in the engine to start. Now sometimes it will be after turning it off its right at the start of the compression stroke and not being able to power through it. I get the general premise of the auto compression release but I do not know how to really test it to see if that is working.

J-Mech · #26 03-28-2017, 02:58 PM

You can take the spark plug out and roll the engine over by hand. You will be looking directly at the exhaust valve. You should be able to see if pop open slightly as it nears the compression stroke, if it is working....

machinehead323 · #27 03-28-2017, 03:08 PM

if I remember correctly the plug is not over my exhaust valve. I wouldn't even begin to know how to explain how to get to the compression stroke

J-Mech · #28 03-28-2017, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by machinehead323

if I remember correctly the plug is not over my exhaust valve. I wouldn't even begin to know how to explain how to get to the compression stroke

1650 plug should be over the exhaust valve, if memory serves.

I know your not there, and that must be frustrating. Maybe there is someone around that can help her??