Brought home a 149 - Page 3

Alvy · #21 06-26-2016, 09:49 PM

Jeff is right on. I just blew the dust off my impact driver and was able to get all 8 of the Phillips truss heads out of my 108 foot rests.

zippy1 · #22 06-26-2016, 11:35 PM

As for the pressure washing goes, use your head while doing it. As ol George mentioned, be careful around the seals, and use the "fan" spray, not the pointed full pressure. And do not spray into the vent, which you will see on the top of the differential, just above your top bolt on the rear end cover.
Oh, and I use Simple Green as a cleaner, works great. Here's my preferred way of cleaning an old dirty tractor.
There's been a few bolts that I couldn't get out with a screw driver of any kind, so ended up using an old driveshaft, and welder. Grind a clean spot on top of the bolt, and grind the end of the driveshaft like you would sharpen a pencil and weld it to the bolt.
Put a vicegrip on it and turn it out, works every time. Granted, the bolt is junk, but it's out.

sawdustdad · #23 06-28-2016, 02:54 PM

Impact driver on the footrest screws is the first thing to try.

Next is to grind a slot in the head for a large square shank screwdriver, then use an appropriate wrench on the shank of the screwdriver to get leverage.

My last ditch effort is to weld a nut (from the center) to the head of the truss screw, then use a socket or wrench to remove the screw with the nut welded to it.

Zippy1: I like your lift system.

vr4Legacy · #24 06-28-2016, 08:12 PM

Thanks for the tips everyone.

I found these I'm going to pick up and see how they work with my impact driver. The largest bit is 5/8", so I think that will grab well enough.

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-pc-12...set-67881.html

If that fails, I'll try cutting a deeper slot. If all else fails, I'll drag the tractor to my FIL and have him weld a nut on. I got 4 or 5 loose with just a typical flat head screw driver, so I'm hopeful that they'll pop loose with a bigger bit and impact driver.

Zippy, if I had the tractor on the right, I may not have bought a Cub lol

I'll report back on how everything went

vr4Legacy · #25 07-02-2016, 02:44 PM

Still making progress. I picked up the bit set at Harbor Freight and it worked great. I was able to just use a 1/2" wrench with the bits.

Pulled the fender pan off. Making sure to label the wires on the regulator. Not sure if the order matters, but I don't want to risk it lol.

I think I leveled a small critter civilization in there. Found a few interesting repairs along the way. Apparently they couldn't get the brakes adjusted tight enough, so they threw a couple large nuts on the rods and pulled them in tighter.

The mount where the brake lever broke at the top and they put a large worm screw hose clamp on it. It works and seems to be a good enough repair, so I'm leaving that. I removed the extra pieces off the brake linkages. I'll figure out the adjust the brakes the right way....

I also found a few loose bolts here and there.

Next up, spray some cleaner and pull out the power washer

zippy1 · #26 07-03-2016, 12:03 AM

Yeah, looks typical under the seat pan.
Best to blow the loose stuff off before wasting the cleaner on the thick gunk. Just remember, start out with just the fan spray, and work yourself up if needed, staying away from seals and the vent on top of the diff.
Get that gunk off it'll look new again, then you can track down the source of any leakage.

vr4Legacy · #27 07-10-2016, 08:48 PM

Got the pressure washer out and cleaned out some "chit", as Ol George would say. Looks a lot better now. I also cleaned and sprayed some rust convertor on the battery tray. It looked pretty bad. I was impressed with how well it did.

Just waiting on the hydraulic line to come in and then it's on to the PTO.

I need to see about getting the slow leaks fixed in the tires. Any tips on how to track them down and repair them? Should I just take them to a tire shop?

Hopefully I'll get the 1200 driveline back in within the week. Who knows, I might have TWO Cubs running and working by the end of the month lol

zippy1 · #28 07-10-2016, 11:58 PM

There you go, much cleaner.

If the tires are tubeless, tube them, problem solved.

JLM78 · #29 07-11-2016, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

Got the pressure washer out and cleaned out some "chit", as Ol George would say. Looks a lot better now. I also cleaned and sprayed some rust convertor on the battery tray. It looked pretty bad. I was impressed with how well it did.

Just waiting on the hydraulic line to come in and then it's on to the PTO.

I need to see about getting the slow leaks fixed in the tires. Any tips on how to track them down and repair them? Should I just take them to a tire shop?

Hopefully I'll get the 1200 driveline back in within the week. Who knows, I might have TWO Cubs running and working by the end of the month lol

You should have them Tomorrow .

vr4Legacy · #30 07-11-2016, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLM78

You should have them Tomorrow .

Just came today! Thanks!

Now I need to find the time to get them in lol. I also think they changed a fitting on the tranny when they put in the hose to adapt it, so I may need to get that figured out. hopefully I can get into it in the next few days.

Quote:

Originally Posted by zippy1

There you go, much cleaner.

If the tires are tubeless, tube them, problem solved.

I don't think they have tubes. Maybe I'll go that route.