782 Rebuild

[zippy1]

I would just wet sand it out, being careful on the edges so not to sand through the primer.
Be a good idea to have two guns. One for primer and one for paint. It's not that the H.F. guns aren't cheap enough.

[Oak]

Hey, you learned something and I bet that won't happen again.

To me, yellow paint is a #itch to spray. The first time I sprayed I started with primer and it was easy and looked awesome. Then a few days later I mixed the yellow and shot it. I had more runs than the Atlanta Braves had all year. I'm not sure what caused your orange peel, maybe one of the pro's will chime in.

I did like you and hung parts to spray. The wind was calm until I got the paint mixed then it picked up. That made it hard to keep the same distance from what I was spraying so now I lay my pieces on a sheet of plywood on saw horses. I now go light on my coats of paint and let it set for at least 5 minutes between coats. You don't want it to dry between coats but get tacky like fly paper and then shoot the next light coat. I think the paint will stay sprayable for at least 1 hour if not 2 mixed up in your gun so don't rush it. That's what is nice about the HF spray guns. If you screw up, throw it in the trash and go spend another $18 on a new one.

When I'm done spraying I run some lacquer thinner through it then pull it apart and used compressed air to clean it.

Don't give up. That paint will look so much better and hold up a lot better than the old rattle can resto ever will.

[SGragg]

Like others, I've got separate spray guns for primer and for paint. Both HF or inexpensive guns, but even those are superior to a spray can. IMO

Also found the best solvent/cleaner is the thinner from Case-IH. I've tried mineral spirits, paint thinner, even acetone and nothing dissolves and removes the Case-IH 2150 enamel like their thinner. Your experience and type of paint may differ. But finding something that works well to clean your spray gun is a must.

Sorry to hear of your setback, but it is a valuable lesson. Wish you much success for the next go-around.

[Workinprogress]

Well painting almost complete. Started to assemble yellow parts. While I wet sanded out some of the orange peel I focused on the fender and other large flat parts. The remaining parts I left alone. This will be a worker tractor so it is what it is.

Still have last coat on white panels and I have been spending extra time on these panels.

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[Workinprogress]

Just cleaned up and painted the two spool hydraulic valve.

I have the metal lines from the single spool valve. Does anyone know if you can make the single spool lines work on a two spool valve or should I have some new lines made?

[Workinprogress]

Was able to install the 2 spool valve. No matter how I tried it looks like the steel lines from the 1 spool valve just won't work. Original steels lines are pretty rusted. Not sure how much I can bend things before they break.

Inlets for the 1 spool valve are on the bottom but 2 spool valve they are on the side. Will check around couple local shops to see if they make steel lines. I wonder about finding the end fittings and using some steel brake line material and bend them myself.

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[Workinprogress]

Overall thing slowly coming together.

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[ACecil]

Looking nice! Thanks for the update.

[RedOnes]

Thanks for documenting your progress here , I may be doing the same thing.
I`ll wait till you get all the bugs out of the process ..looking forward to the engine installation.

[Workinprogress]

The work continues on the two spool valve. After giving up on making the single valve lines work I located a local shop that could make custom hard lines. While the lines are available new I figured the local shop would be cheaper. I pulled lines off my 1512 (2 spool) and took them to the shop for duplication. A short 5 minute conversation at the shop found out they could not build the lines any cheaper than buying new.

Spent time looking at other options. Looked at purchasing flare tool and line material/fittings. Seemed like a good option since I need to build them for another tractor and someday I will build a loader.

This morning tried another shop before buying tools and supplies. I have used this shop before to make hydraulic hoses. Shop was recently bought out by fleet pride so I wasn't sure how things would go. Great guy at the shop and was very helpful. While he couldn't make hard lines he asked lots of questions. He had some great suggestions. After purchasing of some 45 degree and straight fittings I headed home. By making some minor bends and unbends to the hardliners from the 1 spool valve and using a few fittings I made the connections. So with $12 in fittings everything came together.

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