Mark's O Project

[johns cubs]

Great job! Its turning out real nice! Keep up the hard work!

[drglinski]

My favorite line is when the mrs. says 'how much is it going to cost?" and you're like "?????????????????" don't know till you start tearing into it.

[crossingcrown]

I have seen a guy use a vice. Just clamped it right dehind the spring. Used another clamp on the other side. Knocked out the roll pin, and VERY slowly released the vice. I believe a guy on YouTube had a 147 or somthing that he used this method. It seemed pretty simple. If any one else has a better way, please let em know. I haven't gotten this far to have to do it yet myself.

[ccguy]

mobermiller:

I'm enjoying your restoration...more pics! And your shop is TOO nice!

ccguy

[Berwil]

Hopefully I've described this clearly enough.

To disassemble my O clutch I used two 12" pieces of 2x4 and 4 squeezey bar clamps. I drilled a 5/8" hole in the center of both 2x4's and used a saw to open one hole to a U notch. I drilled a 5/16" hole through the back of the U out the other side of the 2x4. I put the clutch side of the shaft in the 2x4 with the plain hole, I slid the block with the U cut out over the rear of the shaft behind the clutch spring, making sure the roll pin was vertical. I put one clamp a few inches in from the end of each corner to "box" around driveshaft. I gave each clamp one squeeze and moved to the next. I compressed the spring until the roll pin lined up with the 5/16" hole in the block. I put blocks under the 2x4's to take the weight off the bottom clamps and give a solid footing. I tapped the driveshaft down so it was cradled in the U, then drove out the rear roll pin. I then pressed the clamp release levers one at a time until the spring was fully relaxed.
Assembly is in reverse order. It helps to place a nut under the driveshaft in the U behind the roll pin hole for assembly. This supports the driveshaft while tapping in the roll pin and keeps the pin out of the hole so it slides smoothly when you release clamp pressure.

I have one gear drive, by the time I put the clutch together and apart 3 times, the U block was worn out because it's only wood. Lucky for me, I had the kinks out by then and the clutch was done. If I was doing more tractors I would make a proper setup, but I'm not. This worked for me and if you proceed with caution, it will work for you. Mods if this does not seem safe enough to leave up, I understand if it goes away.

Bill

[mobermiller]

Thanks Berwil for your description.

I actually had my clutch apart. The PO had it so messed up that the roll pin that holds tension on the transmission side was ready to break. I just helped along. I used 2 5/8" split collars in place of the rear roll pin. I reassembled the clutch and snugged the split collars to the shaft. I used my vice and supported the clutch on the split collars. The vice was not clamped to the shaft. I then used a big hammer and hit the end of the shaft thus compressing the spring. The shaft would move through the split collars but would hold the pressure of the spring. When I got to the point of desired compression, I tightened the split collars completely. When I realized that I put the clutch together wrong, it was easy to decompress the spring by slowly loosening the split collars.

I'll post a few more photos later.

To be continued.

[mobermiller]

Well here are a few more photos. I was putting the clutch and driveshaft back in when I realized that I don't have a friction disk on one side of the pulley. ANOTHER DELAY! By suggestion I guess I'll buy some friction material from McMaster Carr and make a disk.

I just painted the engine. When the paint is dry I'll put on the tins.

When I have all of the parts that get painted yellow reassembled on the O, I'll be doing a final painting. I'll give the O a sanding to remove the glaze and repaint the entire tractor. This should give the O a more uniform finish. The photos are very forgiving and don't show the thin paint. I purposely put a thin coat of paint on everything with the intent of a 2nd coat.

To be continued.

[cubby102]

Amazing work!! Blows the 0 I restored clean out of the water. I will be happy when I can find the time to start working on my 71!

[mobermiller]

Well I'm finally seeing light at the end of the tunnel. I did my final painting of my custom O. I mixed my TSC Majic brand paint, 4 parts paint, 1 part hardener, and 1 part thinner. I had already pre-painted all of my parts with a gray primer and a thin coat of Majic rattle can paint.

When I painted the air temp was around 80 degrees. During the afternoon the temperature climbed well into the 90's. The paint mix I used seemed a little thin but the end result was really nice. It finished with a really nice shine and dried real quick. See the shine in the photos. It dried enough for me to touch it without worry of messing up the paint after about 8 hours. I actually started putting things back on like the front tires.

This is a custom O and not a restoration so the perfection police need not write me a ticket. I wanted the starter/generator to be painted black as well as other parts you might find yellow on a true restoration. I wanted wider tires on it and have a set of 23 X 10.5-12 agg tires on the way. I eventually will have tri-ribbed tires on the front.

Since my engine had a complete overhaul, I opted to install an amp gauge and a hour meter on the dash, thus the 2 holes you see in the photo. I have a black padded pan type seat for it and it will have a painted black stack.

I still have the hood to finish and the IH emblem needs to be blasted and painted as well. They both are in pretty bad shape and have a lot of pits in the metal. It will take some time to get a smooth finish on them.

To be Continued.

[mobermiller]

I'm only allowed one photo at a time, thus the multiple posts.