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  #21  
Old 06-27-2015, 05:05 PM
coinman66 coinman66 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Gapping the points is not how we set them. We about this all the time. We are trying to avoid telling people to gap points. That is why we have all the info on how to set timing.






You have bigger problems than paint on the head. More than likely you are running too lean, and if you didn't follow the directions given in this thread on how to time the engine, then your timing is off. Did you or did you not set the timing? Have you tuned your carb? And I don't mean set it to the starting point that the book gives..... did you TUNE it?
Don't have a timing light J-Mech. Heck I may bring engine down to you sometime. I'm not far from you. I live a just north of Danville, Illinois on RT 1.
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  #22  
Old 06-27-2015, 05:30 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Location: Oblong, Illinois
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You don't need a timing light. Just a test light. You can get them at Wal-Mart for a couple bucks. Part stores have them too.

You aren't far. Let me know if you ever want to come down. I'll fix you right up!
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  #23  
Old 06-28-2015, 04:59 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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Having spark at the points is not a "wrong thing" there is spark at the points, granted it isn't the spark that you are looking for, but never-the-less it is there.

I'm not sure why anyone would ever tell anyone else that there is no spark at the points. Pull the cover off of the points, turn the key on, push the points open and the points WILL spark, start the engine in the dark, there will be a steady flow of spark until you shut it off.

I can not emphasize enough that you are setting the timing, not gaping the points!

It doesn't matter if the points open .20" or a foot and a half, it is all about WHEN the spark happens.

At the exact instant that the two little disks on the point-set lose contact is when the spark occurs.

Ultimately, what you want is for the points to just break contact (and cause spark) when the "S" is in the middle of the afore mentioned hole in the fan shroud.

Now, go get a 12 volt test light, hook the clip to the negative side of the coil and position the pointed end (with the light in it) so that the light will shine in the hole when it comes on (I put some tape on one side of the light so that the light doesn't shine in my eyes and into the hole at the same time). Turn the key on, touch the pointed end to the engine block and turn the crankshaft (normal operating direction) until the light comes on, look in the hole and the "S" should be centered in the hole. If it is not, adjust the points again. If the "S" is already past the hole, close the gap a little to make them loose contact sooner. If the "S" isn't to the hole yet, open the gap a little to make them open a little later.

When the "S" is exactly centered in the hole at the exact instant the light comes on, tighten the screw and check it again. When the "S" is in the hole at the exact instant the light comes on WITH the screw tight, then you are finished!
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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