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  #21  
Old 07-15-2015, 10:33 AM
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TheSaturnV TheSaturnV is offline
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Don't get discouraged. These little tractors aren't complex but they can give you fits at times. Once you get it going, you're going to love it.

Have you been taking photos/video of what you are working on/taking apart? It is surprisingly easy to put wires back in the wrong place, reconnect carb linkages in the wrong slots, etc. A quick before video with you phone will bail you out of a lot of trouble.

You need to:

• Download the 127 owners and service manuals

• Study the wiring schematic

• Trace all your wires for condition, connection and originality (well-meaning tinkerers can wreak havoc on a wiring harness)

The solenoid is a very simple concept. They are there so that the IGN switch doesn't have to carry the full load to the starter. The IGN switch sends power to the solenoid (which is essentially a plunger switch) which then makes the final connection to energize the starter.

So, when the battery and/or its connections are weak, you get the click. I've worked on friends cars that were doing that, and it was a simple as a loose ground at the battery.

Let us know what voltage you are getting on the starter side of the solenoid.

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  #22  
Old 07-15-2015, 10:36 AM
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Billy-O Billy-O is offline
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I think you need to look for a short somewhere....I'm leaning on that wire on the starting circuit (battery to solenoid to starter) and maybe even the starter or solenoid itself might be bummed. Also, but not likely, the lead from key to solenoid.

And yes.... a meter will be helpful tool in checking this!
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  #23  
Old 07-15-2015, 10:37 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Quote:
I am going to get a multi meter today
This is a good idea. As a suggestion........don't buy the cheapest meter out there. I would suggest that you look at ones in the $25 - $50 range. They are reasonably accurate and will afford you some years of durability.

IF...you have any meter questions, make note of the Brand Name and Model number and bring it back here. We will steer you in the right direction.

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  #24  
Old 07-15-2015, 11:01 AM
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Berwil Berwil is offline
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You said after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery cable you got spark on the positive side of the battery and no click. I'm wondering if the positive battery cable is bad and not passing enough current. It was passing enough before to pull the solenoid, now after moving it, it's not making enough contact and it sparking where the wire connects to the terminal. This is something we can help you test with your new meter.

Bill
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  #25  
Old 07-15-2015, 11:13 AM
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Cub Cadet 123 Cub Cadet 123 is offline
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My 104 did the same thing because there was a short in the wire to the safety switch in the frame. As Billy-O stated first stated, there is a short somewhere along the electrical path that is drawing on your battery. That is why you saw the spark when connecting the positive terminal wire. Lots of good advice given to you already. Hang in there!! These are great little tractors and parts for the 127 are plentiful.

Cub Cadet 123
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  #26  
Old 07-15-2015, 11:31 AM
JulieL JulieL is offline
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Well Dang! I seriously appreciate all the good suggestions. I do loooooooove this tractor!!!! I printed off the manual a while back. I will go through everything again with a fine tooth comb and report back.
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  #27  
Old 07-15-2015, 12:46 PM
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TheSaturnV TheSaturnV is offline
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Oh yeah, photos or it doesn't exist!

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  #28  
Old 07-15-2015, 04:05 PM
bkw3614 bkw3614 is offline
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Julie,

Just a couple of thoughts.

First, your Starter/Generator may need a re-build, and may not be making brush-armature contact. It may be something to check.

Second, when cleaning up both your live and ground contacts, please be sure that you are using dialectrec grease, and not regular lubricating grease. Dialectric grease assures a good electrical contact after the connector surfaces have been properly cleaned.

Most of all, Please keep working on your tractor and do not become discouraged. Somewhere, there is a problem and you will find it soon enough. Everyone here will support you.

Brian Wittman
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  #29  
Old 07-15-2015, 10:20 PM
cadzag72 cadzag72 is offline
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Just as a thought, see if you can spin the motor over by hand, or turn the starter/generator by hand. I have had an SG sieze a bearing on me before and it stopped the engine on me. Might be worth checking.
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  #30  
Old 07-16-2015, 12:37 AM
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If there is no short, try checking the connector that goes to the battery and is connected to the hot wire. I had a friend where the connection in the wire corroded and his atv starter wouldn't crank because there was too much resistance where the corrosion was. First look for a short, if there is none. Than you may want to check this.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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