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#21
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The chains I have were the ones my grandpa bought in 69' when he bought the cub. To my knowledge I am the only one whos ever had to change any links due to wear mostly. Ive never had a problem like you are explaining other than when my right rear tire was leaking air,the the whole chain would get loose. Other than the chain links stretching ive no idea what happened ? Can you maybe cut them down to fit better on the one side ?
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Nothing runs like a Deere with a Cub on its tail ! |
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#22
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Made a short vid. to help describe what I'm working with.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9v8...ature=youtu.be Clarification: when I say "tight equally as they've always been" it means they are both tightened to the same link AND the way they've been for the past 2 seasons.
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Daniel G. ![]() . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
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#23
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I do not believe the loose chain is loose enough to worry about. I do not know what may have changed but I may have experienced the same thing. I do strap my chains and secure any loose links and have not had any problems doing so.
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With my son, EricR Super 2084 with 54" mower, 451 blower. 2086 with 3 pt hitch, 54 inch deck, 551 blower, 54 in brinly blade. A 4 digit original w deck. A 70 with deck. 2 102s both with 42 in decks, one with creeper, 1 36 inch IH snow thrower CW36, 1 42 inch IH blade. 149 with mower. 2072 w 3 pt hitch, Johnny bucket, 60 in mower, 451 blower. Jacobson GT 10 with mower. DR Lawn vac tow behind,Home made lawn roller. Brinly cart, 2 off brand carts and 1 home made cart. |
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#24
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If it were mine I wouldn't worry about it. That being said, I bet you could work the slack around and get one more link tighter on atleast one side.
On a side note, copper wire works great for securing the end of the chains. A stripped piece of 14 gauge can be threaded through the links and twisted tight. Its easier to install than trying to wrap tape and in the spring just snip it off and put it back in the scrap bin. ![]() Bill |
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#25
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Thanks.
I looked into chain install via other sources than this site, and everything else I've seen the chains are installed much more loosely. It just threw me off because I've done everything the same for the past three years with install and the right one is not as it has been the past 2 winters. I wonder if the cross chains themselves "broke in" during the last few winters and that's what's causing the looseness. Is it a big deal? not at this point I don't think. I've just never ran chains in my life until I got them 3 years ago and I wasn't sure how tight they had to be, like sitting on the tire or actually affecting the shape of the tire. I tried getting one link tighter the other day- no dice. Maybe next year I'll fight with it, when it's not 10 degrees out.
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Daniel G. ![]() . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
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#26
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I run chains on my turf tires on a couple tractors all year long. Helps with wet grass on slippery hills. Like you, I deflate them slightly, pull them tight, a little at a time, working from one side of the tire to the other. Then reinflate. They don't seem to work loose over time, so I doubt yours are stretching.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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