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PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!
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#21
12-01-2014, 04:01 PM
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Got the nut off. Does the screen ride freely between the engine shroud and aluminum pulley? Driven by the tab on the pulley? It looks like mine has tried to spin at sometime cut a groove in the pulley tab. Also, it has torn some of the screen around the i.d. Do I need to try to fix the screen somehow? Thanks!
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#22
12-01-2014, 05:25 PM
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There should be 4 little screws holding the screen to the pulley.
I believe they are 6-32. I used loctite during reassembly.
__________________
1966__122 Cub Cadet. Owner: Calvin, 6 yrs old Dad: Craig
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#23
12-01-2014, 06:18 PM
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That explains everything. I wonder how long mine had been gone and the pulley was driving the screen. I see the tapped holes now in the pulley. They are filled with dirt and crud so the screws have been gone for awhile. Thanks for your help!
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#25
12-04-2014, 03:14 PM
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Two questions. Is this engine block clean enough or does it need cleaning some more? Next, I realize now I should not have painted some areas on the control lever bracket and I am going to remove the paint from the pivot areas. Is the C shaped retainer supposed to be driven on the shaft, all the way to line up with the washer underneath? Was mine working its way off when I dissembled? Thanks!
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#26
12-10-2014, 09:22 AM
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While I was waiting on some rear end gaskets to come in, I kind of got ahead of myself. I flattened the head and installed the head gasket. Torqued to 10,20, 30 per the proper sequence. I'm going to pressure wash the engine, tape off the head,paint the block black and the rest yellow. Now I realize I have to take the head bolts back out to install the top cover and heat shield. I probably should have only torqued to 10 while I was still prepping the engine and then do a final torque when I installed the covers. Should I a) order new head gasket b) torque to a higher number at final assembly, say 32 c) just torque again at 30?
Thanks for your help! 
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#29
12-17-2014, 10:21 AM
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I want to give you guys an update and ask your opinion on a couple of points. I've spent the last week fixing little things, trying to get everything together to start putting the 105 back together. Lots of separate issues to work out! Went to TSC last night and got most of the hardware. Buying by the pound is definitely the way to go. I keep reading about Hydro leaks and I want prevent any before I put the rear end back in the frame. Should I put anything on the threaded connectors for the aluminum cooling tube? I think I read somewhere about using teflon tape? Also, I've never painted fiberglass. Does it need any special prep, prime or just topcoat? Thanks for everyone's help! I've attached a few pictures of the work in process. The first two are the questions.
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#30
12-17-2014, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Painting the fiberglass is nothing special, just prime with the correct primer for the topcoat of your choice. Nice work so far!
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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