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#21
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If HoundDog wants to increase power we need to look at what is robbing power. First thing that comes to mind is the hydro trans. Odds are the better response you are having is from a new head gasket. A higher voltage coil will help with a better spark and lees carbon build up. If you go to a higher voltage coil you need to replace the plug wire with a heavier one to get the best use out the coil. Fuel plays a big part in how your Cub Cadet runs. The Kohler engines was design to run on 87 octane fuel....10% ethanol or non ethanol. Running 90 plus octane will lower any engine performace and leave more carbon deposits. Fresh fuel is better than fuel a month old fuel. How you store your fuel makes a difference. I store my fuel in containers that can be sealed. I do not store my fuel contains on the shop floor or a dirt floor. Moisture will get into the container easier. I put a piece of wood between the floor and fuel container. Every 30 days I dump any fuel left in my containers into my truck and fill the containers with fresh fuel from a gas station that has plenty of business. I add a good fuel stablizer before I fill my containers. The fuel container is shaken some to remix the fuel in the container. One big no-no is using fuel from a bulk fuel tank.
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Project Uncle Dick Cub Cadet 70 http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ght=Uncle+Dick |
#22
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I appreciate all the input. I'm not messing with the different fuels. I was thinking about things such as a hotter coil, good wire and plug. Maybe an air filter? One thing is for sure, I'm not going to ruin my tractor. I'm not tearing the engine apart, drilling holes, welding on it.....you get the idea. I realize I'm best off leaving it be. Like I said, I don't NEED extra power. Was just looking to tinker with something. And if extra power came from tinkering, that's fine. As long as the bolt-ons can be removed and easily put back to stock. I don't think bolt on parts ruin anything. But, now I see there isn't really anything that's available, so I'm leaving it alone.
I still may put wheels and tires on sometime, and that'll be it. It looks good now, stock, but we all know that a nice set of wheels and tires make anything look good, whether it's an old Cub or a car or truck.
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Restored 1970 127 1962 Original |
#23
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It looks great in the pic in your avatar. Just put some ag tires on the back and enjoy.
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#24
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I'll prob just do the tires and use it.
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Restored 1970 127 1962 Original |
#25
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What's the matter with using fuel from a bulk tank?
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#26
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Your underlying problem is that you don't have enough tractors (that's true of everyone here.....!)
My recommendation is to buy two more minimum. Pick one of them and make a bunch of flashy mods (big tires, polished rims, etc). Use that one for show. Then the other one mess with the motor in whatever way you like.. The pullers section can give you some ideas. But keep your current one. Once you are done messing with the others your tinkering itch will be scratched and you will know what you like and yet will still have the current one. ![]() |
#27
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Nothing...... if you use it and it doesn't get stale. Fresh fuel is what Merk is getting out. Years ago, when gas could sit a year without getting stale, we bought 100 gallons or so of fuel just for the mower and gas tractors. I don't think fuel could sit in a bulk tank now for that long. By the time the 6mo mark rolled around, I think you would start having problems. Shoot, I get small engines in here every spring that people say won't start. Drain last fall's gas out and they fire right up. Gasoline has too much alcohol in it now for it to stay good for very long. BIO FUEL SUCKS!!! I prefer dead dinosaur fuel and diesel with sulfur in it. Smells better, runs better.
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#28
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OK, just wanted a little explanation. 6 months is about as long as we go before having to buy more. We do use ethanol free. Heat the shop and dad's house with diesel, not fuel oil--we do try to run them low in the spring. Likewise seasonal equipment we try to keep the fuel level low in the offseason.
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#29
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For the record M.E. Miller tire does sell a 10x12 rear wheel but with a stock fender you will likely have to use a wheel spacer to make it fit. Then as already mentioned you will have deck clearance issues.
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#30
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You guys are funny. So no chemicals because it will blow up. Just what do you think you gasoline you run is made of? Jetting incease is based on the mix example provided. So calculations can be made. Which is why i linked tothe info. Btw- That motor was based on leaded fuel if I am correct. Notably different chemicals than you are buying today. I do agree jetting is a concern for much of a mix. Oh. Here is one for ya, mixes as I noted run cooler for the same hp output. Now I can understand not wanting to run a mix in a Cub. But wanting a tad more power. Or feel of power and spunky. Well that is easy and safe to do.
My rare rant is over and sorry if I offended anyone. |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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