1450 build from a newbie - Page 3

Gijazbo · #21 06-23-2014, 10:51 PM

Thanks everyone, For the last day i have been pricing out parts. The mechanical ones are all pretty reasonable, its the cosmetic that will be a piece by piece job. I want to say thanks to CC1650Dave for his thread it has really helped me out. you can find it here

I am ahaving a blast bringing this thing back to life, since i have bought newer vehicles i packed away almost all my mechanics tools. I build furniture as a hobby, one of many, so my garage has been oil free for some time. I love working on this wide frame because its so easy to do so, and its just big enough not to be too time consuming (although i will always be upgrading).

This forum is great, and its awesome there such a great community.

Once i get the tractor split i will post some more pics, and then its paint prepfor the frame and engine overhaul.

Gijazbo · #22 06-23-2014, 10:54 PM

One question, i am not sure if i need a new muffler, the thing is still solid, no baffles are moving inside, but i am just not sure.

Does anyone recomend putting in a new one, and if so has anyone used aftermarket ones. Particularly this one from NAPA. It is a reasonable price, but i am not sure about fittment.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...680_0215383964

sawdustdad · #23 06-24-2014, 08:28 AM

I've generally re-used mufflers unless they were holed or otherwise damaged. I've purchased a couple new ones, they get pricey. That NAPA one is a different style compared to what that tractor originally had. The link you posted shows a muffler for the earlier Cub Cadets that don't have side panels. I actually used one like that on a build where I didn't put side panels on the tractor, so that style muffler worked out. Pictures here show how I used the heat shield (and fuel tank) from an earlier series--that made mounting the muffler easier. This was originally a 1450 but got a K301 transplant.

Gijazbo · #24 06-30-2014, 10:29 PM

Well work is crazy busy right now, but i was able to get some work done sunday.

I have been halted by the steering wheel, and i was hopeing that some PB and a few stiff whacks would get it, but negative. so i will be building a puller pretty soon.

When i pulled the mule drive (i may be calling it the wrong thing) i noticed that someone apparently went full speed into a tree with it. Does anyone have a picture of how their pulleys look. i just dont know if the whole thing is crooked or just the frame.

Also, has anyone has success fixing something like this, or is my best bet just to use self tappers in a different location.

Should this part have any wobble to it. Its a little less than 1/8". im worried it is a result of being run for a long time with no iso or engine bolts.

and it looks like i will have to fab up a new bracket for the lever, this on has just given up

sawdustdad · #25 07-01-2014, 01:42 PM

The steering wheel should come off. Put the nut on it, engaging several threads (so the shaft almost comes flush with the top but not quite). Then use a 3 or 4 inch bolt with a large heavy washer on it, slide that down into the steering column. Now, apply upwards force to the wheel while tapping the bolt head (driving the steering center shaft downward). A few sharp whacks should knock it loose. (This has worked for me on all my tractors except the 72. That devilish machine refused to budge! So this method is no guarantee.)

Your mule drive does look bent, but the pulleys are "tilted" on QL tractors to accommodate the off center drive pulley on the 44A and 50A mower decks. The mounting frame of the mule drive should be square, though.

The loose drive collar on the hydro unit is typical. Knock that pin out, check the hole in the input shaft. If it's badly wallowed out, you might have to repair it, but generally they don't get that bad, and you can probably run it as is. Put in a new spirol pin when you reassemble. Most of mine have a little play in them.

Rescue11 · #26 07-01-2014, 09:58 PM

If you absolutely cannot get the wheel off, look at my power steering post under customized cub cadets. It involves a nut, bolt, come along, hammer and wire. It works, believe me.

j4c11 · #27 07-01-2014, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gijazbo

One question, i am not sure if i need a new muffler, the thing is still solid, no baffles are moving inside, but i am just not sure.

Does anyone recomend putting in a new one, and if so has anyone used aftermarket ones. Particularly this one from NAPA. It is a reasonable price, but i am not sure about fittment.

Mine was completely rusted, but otherwise structurally sound. I completely submerged in an electrolysis bath for about 24 hours and it cleaned up real nice, including on the inside(I'm assuming).A fresh coat of black paint and it looks and works like new one in your picture.

I have had good luck getting the steering wheel off by smacking the steering column(the threaded pipe in the center of the steering wheel) firmly with a hammer 3-4 times.

jcsmith · #28 07-02-2014, 07:54 PM

Put " steering wheel puller" in the search feature. Lots of info. On my 104 I drilled and tapped 2 holes in the metal part around the splines and used a harmonic balancer puller. I used 8-32,or 10-24 bolts, can't remember which, and had to drill and tap the holes at a slight outward angle so the bolts would go thru the slots in the puller. Makes it easy to take off next time. If you go this route use the protective cap on the puller screw so you don't mess up threads on column.

Good luck. Gonna be a nice tractor.

Chris

cubcadet · #29 07-02-2014, 08:02 PM

I put a bearing puller under the steering wheel and then use a 3 jaw puller to pull up on the bearing puller, then sit on the tractor, put your knees under the wheel and push up, then wack the center bolt of the puller, worked every time for me.

Gijazbo · #30 07-05-2014, 07:03 PM

Well i got a little more work done today after finishing up the 4th of July festivities.

Finally got the steering wheel and column off, although it was at the cost of the wheel which took a stray blow by a hammer. So we will add that to the parts list.

After that and some disconnecting of linkage, the tower was ready to come off.

Then with a few more minutes and left over beers in the cooler, BAM split tractor.

Then i got a little frisky and started to clean up the frame with a flap disk, but after about 20 min i decided that i am going to start calling around to see if i can get a good price on sandblasting everything but the sheet metal.

Much like when i got into running jeeps and the jeepforum community, i am learning that what all of you have said about these things nickel and diming you to death is true. But my wife has gotten on board and even got me this as well as an IH hat for an early B-day gift.