Quietline rear end swap to SGT

Originally Posted by aagitch

Is there really a point switching from aluminum to a cast rear unless something's wrong with the rearend? You're most likely not going to have issues with the aluminum rear unless you're abusing it. Seems like a waist of money.

Really it all depends if traction is an issue. Here in the hills I need all the traction I can get, not only am I fed up with spinning out and tearing up my turf but some of the areas of the three lawns I mow are just down right dangerous. I could post pics but pics just don't do justice to how steep some areas are. Also our soil here is a clay based soil and when it gets damp it can be slick as ice.
Every aluminum rear I've had regardless of the tractor has spun out on me. I've loaded tires and added weights and still it's just not enough. Even the 1872 I had would. Certain slopes I could only mow down hill and even then at times it would run away on me. Mowing sideways to the hill I could only mow with the left tire on the low side otherwise the left rear would get lite on the high side and spin out. Nothing worse than fighting and fighting to get a lawn mowed.
My 982 with the CI rear (factory) has never really had an issue with traction, stacked weights and loaded tires. I will lose traction when plowing though, our clay here is tough. Never had a problem getting around with the 982 but then I don't mow with it either.
I replaced my 1811's rear with a CI at the end of mowing season last year, haven't really mowed with it yet but just driving it around it feels 100% better.

It may make no sense to anyone but I do think the CIs transfer power to the ground a little differently, certainly appears that way to me.

Just my experience. Not a waste for me.

Scott

[aagitch]

That's a good point. I'll have to take notice when I go plow with the 982d which has the aluminum rear. I know my 782 with cast rear, wheel weights, and loaded tires was a traction beast plowing.