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  #21  
Old 12-31-2013, 10:35 AM
mmzullo mmzullo is offline
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While we are on the subject of point savers and points. Does anyone ever check the push rod length for the points? I have a 149 that is a PITA to start in the winter. I have this problem every year. I modified the seat pan to fit a very small auto battery. I know its not a cranking problem. The points seem to pit every year. I put in new p/c in the summer. Also changes coils. And now the tractor wouldn't start. It has spark but weak. cleaned the points it finally started. I was thinking of going to the point saver and just have second thoughts.
But anyway back to the rod length for the points. Does anyone know the lenght of the rod? I know the early ones where aluminum and wore. Not sure about the steel ones. Mines 1.550 thou.
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  #22  
Old 12-31-2013, 12:04 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I suppose push rod length could be an issue, but seriously doubt it. Do this: Set the engine on the "S" mark, then loosen up the points and see if you can get a gap of at least .020. If you can, it's fine. .018 or under, I'd be looking for another one. My guess is I think you will find that you can get way over .020.


If you keep burning up points, and have starting issues, I'd be checking engine to frame grounding. Also, where are you getting the points and condenser? Coil? How old is the plug wire? Pitting on the points usually indicates a condenser problem. Is you condenser grounded good? Hooked to the negative side of the coil? Although it may help your point burnout issue, I don't think a point saver will fix your starting problem.
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  #23  
Old 12-31-2013, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I suppose push rod length could be an issue, but seriously doubt it. Do this: Set the engine on the "S" mark, then loosen up the points and see if you can get a gap of at least .020. If you can, it's fine. .018 or under, I'd be looking for another one. My guess is I think you will find that you can get way over .020.


If you keep burning up points, and have starting issues, I'd be checking engine to frame grounding. Also, where are you getting the points and condenser? Coil? How old is the plug wire? Pitting on the points usually indicates a condenser problem. Is you condenser grounded good? Hooked to the negative side of the coil? Although it may help your point burnout issue, I don't think a point saver will fix your starting problem.
Another issue I have run into is the lobe that the point push rod rides on has had excessive wear and couldn't get the points to open far enough. So I put the old thinking cap on and designed a push rod with a wide base to bridge the worn area on the cam lobe. Only problem with that is it has to be installed from the inside which means the engine has to be torn down to remove the cam. Sure beat coming up with a good cam.
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  #24  
Old 12-31-2013, 05:30 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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Another issue I have run into is the lobe that the point push rod rides on has had excessive wear and couldn't get the points to open far enough. So I put the old thinking cap on and designed a push rod with a wide base to bridge the worn area on the cam lobe. Only problem with that is it has to be installed from the inside which means the engine has to be torn down to remove the cam. Sure beat coming up with a good cam.
Capitol idea! If the engine is torn down anyway, why not?
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  #25  
Old 01-01-2014, 10:18 AM
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Capitol idea! If the engine is torn down anyway, why not?
Yosemite Sam I picked up an engine a few years ago for a song because the guy could never get it to run right. He had it rebuilt and still wouldn't run very well. I found the points had about a .005 gap so I thouhgt theres the problem. Gapped them to .020 and no spark. WTF So upon further investigation I realized the points were not shutting being set at .020. Lacked a few thou of closing. Tried a new plunger and same thing. Then I tore into it and realized the cam had serious wear on the lobe. That is were I came up with that idea. I made the new plunger out of tool steel and polished it real nice. Talk about a sweet running engine afterwards.
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  #26  
Old 01-01-2014, 11:12 AM
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Great idea Kelly!
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  #27  
Old 01-01-2014, 10:16 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Great idea Kelly!
What Mike said!
(Sorry Nick )
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  #28  
Old 01-01-2014, 10:33 PM
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Oh boy...
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  #29  
Old 09-05-2015, 06:39 PM
chadwick404 chadwick404 is offline
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Default Nova vs. Pointsaver

Old thread but I have a question or two on this topic. I bought Kirk's point saver and am going through a few other things on my CC 123. While looking up some web info I came across the Nova II electronic ignition module...and am now confused. What's the diff between the two units, essentially? The 123 (1967 model) is magneto ignition, correct? If so, the Nova unit seems to be much more straightforward to install, and timing seems to be automatic - am I missing something? With the Nova, points are not even in circuit...?
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  #30  
Old 09-05-2015, 06:50 PM
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its battery ignition
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