Update on the 123: Still no progress!

[Yosemite Sam]

High speed screw 2 turns from closed.

Idle screw 1 1/4 turns from closed.

Screw them in until they JUST bottom out, DO NOT FORCE THEM!

Go to the Technical Library - Tractors, and get the manuals you need.

[cubby123]

LOL that makes total sense. And I will try out the carb. Thanks Frank

[Matt G.]

The factory settings in the manual are a bit lean in my opinion. Most engines seem to like 2 1/4 turns on the main, and 1 1/2 to as much as 1 3/4 on the idle.

If you have spark and the engine is getting gas, you have either a compression or timing problem; I'm leaning toward the latter. It's very easy to check with an ohmmeter or timing light.

[cubby123]

I'm hoping it's just the carb. I bough a new head gasket for her and the head shouldn't be cracked. The points see timed so I will try the carb and go from there. Thanks guys for the specs.

[wshytle]

Cubby123-

Have you ever soaked that carb? From what I've read it might be a good idea. Be sure to clean and blow out all of the little ports with good pressure. Do this with both needles out. If the throttle shaft is worn it would still start but be hard to tune. Be sure the float is good too. Also check the little holes in the high speed needle. I'm convinced that so much as a knat hair can make these carbs act up.

It's a process of elimination. I would also either adjust the s/g belt up or just replace it with new. Set your points at .20 (this should get you started), make sure the coil wire is good, and check grounds starting with the battery. Make sure the points to coil wire is good and not cracked as well.

I'd start out with the settings Matt suggested and remember to do your final adjustments after a warm up.

That's my story and I'm stickn' to it....Wayne

[johncub7172]

hope you get it running! i would coinsider all the ways it could get it's self out of timing.compression,spark,gas but still no start.my friend's 102-every other year the condencer needs replaced or it wont run. these folks know way more than i, so if something comes up with mine, i'll have a heads up. correct me if i'am wrong.....if the piston is all the way up, should you then set the point gap?[.020]

[ajgross]

.020 gap will get you close to the correct timing but probably not perfect. There are a lot of variables that change over time that can and will change the gap for it to be perfectly timed. The only way to time one perfectly is with either a timing light or a ohm meter. On the flywheel there are 2 marks. A "S" and a "T". For it to be properly timed, the points need to open at the "S" mark. You can use a timing light to make sure you have spark at the "S" mark or you can use a ohm meter to determine when the points open and then you set them to open at the "S" mark. I will assure you that after you set the points properly, the gap probably won't be at .020.

AJ

[eastonct124]

Just remember this: "If it's not starting, then it's the ignition"!!!

A small engine, with a carb that is missing the adjusting screws, and leaking, will start, with a shot of ether.....it just won't run. A small engine with a carb that needs rebuilding, or is way out of adjustment, will start with a shot of ether...it just won't run well......If the ignition system is working correctly.

Learn it, live by it.

Small engines are relatively simple.
If your thumb feel a "pop" when on the spk plug hole, then it's got compression.

Next thing needed to start it is a good spark at the right time.

Then technically, while cranking it over....even with no carburater.....if you squirt alittle ether in the port.....It will start!

Don't be so concerned about the carb. Get it running first.....then go to the carb.

[ol'George]

Eastonct124 is correct!
I taught small engines to 4H kids for a few years, and I always taught them that.
One of my favorite questions to them was:
Will a engine run without a carburetor?
No was always their answer!!!
Wrong answer I would say,-- then I would proceed to remove a carb from a engine that ran previously, and set the carb on the bench.
then I dribbled a little fuel in the intake hole and cranked it over and it always ran.
Sure, you couldn't control the rpm's or mixture, but the fact remained, it will run as long as you dribble gas into the intake port.
And with just a little practice with your thumb on a fuel line you can get it to run quite smoothly.
But the important point is ignition @ the correct time, with sufficient compression and it will run.

[Rhoderman]

Thanks AJ for the Excellent information about setting the points with an Ohmmeter! That will make it so easy to do on a bench. I'd always wondered how good my luck would be with a timing light, and how I was going to see both sides of the engine at the same time. With my Fluke DMM in Beep Mode, it won't have to be a two person job. My wife will probably like that as well, since she would be the one adjusting the points while I held the timing light (not likely).

I recently got a set of points from a not so respectable vendor and they were way off. Is it likely these were Chevy points? I didn't get a new bracket, and the new pin was the same length as the old one. It was like I couldn't adjust them far enough to even get closed when they should be.

Cubby123, hang in there. My guess is it's your ignition as well if you have compression at all. If you get it to fire at the right time, it should go. But I've chased my tail many hours on stuff myself... Good Luck!