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  #21  
Old 10-05-2013, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by carltonn View Post
So a little bit of a quick update. Got the old batt out. Got the old spark plug out and sized up for a new one. Ran to fleet farm to look for coil, spark plug, spark plug wire, and batt. got back and put the coil in, and hooked up a batt and she turns over great! put the new spark plug in and made a new spark plug wire, and tested for spark and she was sparking good. (This makes me assume a tractor coil for IH works on the cub cadets?) Put a little carb cleaner in the carb and it started turning over even better!!

put a little gas in the tank and found some leaks in the fuel line (simple fix) but when I was turning it over every probably 10 to 15 seconds it would give a great big loud POP out the exhaust pipe. (I only did this three times before coming in to ask here)

Can someone tell me what this is doing and how to fix it? Thanks for the info!
Great score but tell me? All my tractors are HE's, how can you tell a SHE tractor from a HE tractor?

Nik,
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  #22  
Old 10-05-2013, 07:19 PM
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Carb 101. My best advise of all the carbs I have gone through over the years. Take it completely apart (without removing welch plugs, or butterflies) clean all parts thoroughly, poke wire through all little tiny holes. A cutting torch nozzle cleaner is helpful sometimes. Reassemble clean with new gaskets if needed. That has always worked for me. Take lots of pictures if you have trouble remembering how thing go together. Good Luck!
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  #23  
Old 10-05-2013, 07:22 PM
carltonn carltonn is offline
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Great score but tell me? All my tractors are HE's, how can you tell a SHE tractor from a HE tractor?
Not really sure how to tell them apart myself, but I guess it just came up that way.
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  #24  
Old 10-05-2013, 10:00 PM
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Great to hear!
X2!
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  #25  
Old 10-06-2013, 06:30 PM
carltonn carltonn is offline
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Because everyone loves photos here are some of it currently. I have the hood, nose, grill and heat shield off to be able to spray de-greaser and wash all 30 years of gunk and grime. And its loaded in my truck to take to the fiance parents house where I have access to a hose!

I know this has not been run in many many years, and tons of gunk and grime, but how warm/hot will one of these engines run? Will the heat shields almost direct the heat out? Will moving and wind blowing cool it down? I ask only because within 15 min, the whole engine was way hotter than I could touch. Will cleaning some grime off let it cool easier?

Now to photos:



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  #26  
Old 10-06-2013, 10:10 PM
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Good luck with your 129, and thanks for the pics.
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  #27  
Old 10-08-2013, 10:00 PM
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To my knowledge, an air cooled engine (like the kohlers) will run at about 190-200 degrees F. somewhere in that ballpark anyways. Mine usually hit operating temp in around 5 minutes if they are at a fast idle. When its running you should feel a very strong air current coming out the front of the engine. if you feel a little air here and there, you probably have a mouse nest or something hiding in the cooling fins. Sometimes running lots of water through the fins will clear a rodent house out, sometimes it wont. compressed air shot straight in through the front of the motor while it is running will help break up the obstruction, and the air current generated by the engine will blow the debris back out at you.

From what I can see in the pictures you posted, the cooling fins look fairly clean, on the visible side of the engine anyways. the little bit of gunk on the lower parts of the engine wont obstruct cooling quite as much as gunk on the cooling fins.

Have fun!
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  #28  
Old 10-08-2013, 10:02 PM
carltonn carltonn is offline
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Definitely had the purple power de-greaser and hot water hose out, but ran out of sunlight to properly finish the job...

Another day!
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  #29  
Old 10-08-2013, 11:32 PM
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Definitely had the purple power de-greaser and hot water hose out, but ran out of sunlight to properly finish the job...

Another day!
That is what I use--good stuff, but remember to wear gloves and eye protection! Also, your engine is running hot because you do not have all of the engine tins on it. I would not run the engine for very long periods of time without the engine tins on it. The engine tins are there to direct the flow of air from the turbine design of the fins on the flywheel over the engine to assist in cooling it down. Without the tins, the air does not circulate properly over the engine, which results in your engine running hotter than what it should run.

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  #30  
Old 10-09-2013, 07:24 AM
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nice work
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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