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  #21  
Old 06-22-2013, 11:46 AM
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austin8214 austin8214 is offline
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I'd say it could be possible that when the engine is running it could drive the governor gear off the cam gear with that much play. Did you reinstall the shims on the correct side of the cam shaft?
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  #22  
Old 06-22-2013, 12:08 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by austin8214 View Post
I'd say it could be possible that when the engine is running it could drive the governor gear off the cam gear with that much play. Did you reinstall the shims on the correct side of the cam shaft?
austin8214, read through all of this thread.... at the very beginning I told him how to run the engine to check and see if it had flyweight pressure..... make sure your not going backwards with advice.... I really think that something is being overlooked. Too tight of linkage, or something is not set right. It is possible that the gov gear is becoming "un-meshed" but, he already stated that he can feel it push against his finger with it running with no spring or throttle hooked up....
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  #23  
Old 06-22-2013, 10:22 PM
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Which timing mark on the crank did you use when you reinstalled the crank and the cam?.

It happens...
I had a 7 hp have the same issue,changed out the gov gear with a known working one and it fixed the problem,who would of thought a metal one going bad.
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  #24  
Old 06-23-2013, 09:40 PM
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I've read this over a couple times now, the governor gear should push itself towards the block due to the helical cut. there should be a shim that goes between the block and the governor gear. the cam would push to the bearing plate side of the block. I'd find it odd if the governor gear was loosing contact with the cam . I've shortened cams before and shimmed them on the opposite end to advance cam timing. you have to take allot off to start to come off the gov gear. it almost has to be an adjustment issue. I know it can be difficult to hold the carb open, rotate the gov shaft and tighten the bolt on the gov arm without anything moving.
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  #25  
Old 06-25-2013, 08:44 AM
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To answer a few of your questions:
1. The crank/cam timing marks are correct.
2. The shim is behind the governor.
3. There is no binding of the linkage anywhere. Everything moves freely.
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  #26  
Old 06-29-2013, 06:14 PM
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have you gotten anywhere with this?
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  #27  
Old 06-30-2013, 11:27 AM
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I have decided to step away from this one for a while. I have no ideas at the moment as to what might be wrong, and have several other projects waiting so Im moving a few of them through.
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5x Originals, one with rear PTO, 70, 2x 100's, one w/ creeper,2x 102's, 2x 122 w/creeper and rear pto, 2x 123's, 105, 125 w/ aux hyd,2x 73's, 126, 2x 147, 86, 2x 108's, 129, 2x 149's, 169, 3x 800's, 2x 1100's, 1250, 3x 1650's, 682, 2x 782's, 782D, 982 w/60" Haban, 1872 w/ Haban deck
2 Rear Tillers, 1 Snowblower, #1 cart and 2x #2 cart
IH/Cub Cadet 79C Chipper
526 Front Tine Tiller
Brinly plow, disk, grader blade
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  #28  
Old 08-15-2013, 06:14 PM
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might have an idea on this one. just ran into it this afternoon. when you tighten down the brass nut on the outside of the block does the cross shaft get stiffer? if so take the brass nut and file off a little on the threaded end till when you install it you have a little movement back and forth. it seams as you tighten down the brass nut it starts to pinch the cross shaft because of the spacer being in there.
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  #29  
Old 08-25-2013, 04:11 PM
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I am dealing with this exact issue with my 123. No throttle control at all above idle and it races away. Been through the service manual governor adjustment procedure a bunch of times and am comparing everything to my 127 set up as well which governs out fine just to make sure. I really hope we figure this out too.
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