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#21
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Read the manual again...I'm 95% sure the cam comes out before the crank.
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#22
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Matt, is correct, you have to pull the cam and then the crank can be removed.
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#23
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Sweet pics! Thanks for sharing them with us!
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#24
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Thanks Matt. I read it last night but will read it again. Not sure how the can comes out because I tried so many variations and moving it, tipping it etc to get it out first but I guess there is some sort of sweet spot if you will. I will look and let you know. Thanks
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#25
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No problem. I'm hoping to take as many as possible. I have too many projects and customer stuff in here as well and you know how things can get mixed up.
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#26
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Ok so I just read the k series service manual disassembly section and it does say to remove the crank Before the cam shaft so now I'm confused. The only thing that I didn't do before this as it states is to remove the valves. Maybe, if I'm right, with the valves removed, the tappets will be down enough away from The cam that the cam gear can be out of the way enough at that point. We shall see.
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#27
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Alvy, The crank has to be removed first , then the cam. You read it right. James.
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#28
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Thanks for the pics. Please keep them coming.
__________________
Allen Proud owner of my Original and 126! My Grandpa's Cart Craftsman Lawn Sweeper Craftsman Plug Aerator |
#29
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I think the bearing staying on the crank instead of going with the plate is whats causing you to think there is trouble. You are over thinking it, Just pull the crank out of the hole or if it wont pull then press it out with your puller. Don't worry about the cam gear. Put the pin back in so the cam is in place and it will spin as you pull the crank out. The bearing that's still in the block, on the gear end, should stay in the block.
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#30
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Yeah we lived on a hill of field stone and used to run them over all the time, not by choice but my accident. Still turned out fine.
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Daniel G. ![]() . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
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