Ugh! Blew the engine in my 682 today.

[thenrie]

Originally Posted by CADplans

I would go pick this up, he would probably take $250

http://altoona.craigslist.org/grd/2943125852.html

Then you have a

magnum 18HP engine!!

Sent the guy an email. We'll see what happens. Thanks for the lead. I have been searching all around this area and there is nothing right now. I guess I could get that 1811 and just decide which is the better tractor and go with that.

[Matt G.]

If that is a Series I, you can't really rebuild it...most of the original parts are NLA. If it is a Series II, you can get 0.010" under rods and 0.010" over pistons and rings.

[thenrie]

Has anybody tried using crossover parts from another engine? I can hardly believe there aren't other parts that would fit with minimal alteration. I may try just doing some research and see if I could find rods and pistons for a different manufacturer that might meet the specs. Might be more expensive than it's worth, though. Still, I can hardly see why a single piston should cost nearly $200. That's astronomical! Somebody is making a killing.

What's the difference in the Series 1 and Series 2 pistons and rods?

[Sam Mac]

Here's a possibility for you.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=17857

[thenrie]

Well, the 1811 in Altoona is apparently gone. Still looking.

Sam, that Cub you posted the link for is in Georgia. A bit far for me to drive for a motor.

The search goes on. A few more pics later this evening.

[Matt G.]

You can use Series II parts, but the rod caps must have oil holes drilled, and it really just isn't worth it. You'd be far better off putting the money towards a good, used replacement engine.

[thenrie]

Matt, I'm glad you're still watching this thread. Thanks for your input.

Has anybody converted a B&S V-Twin 16 hp engine to the 682? I will need it to work with the 682's electric PTO and mule drive, as well as connect to the drive shaft. What is involved?

I took a look at your page and decided it wouldn't be too difficult to mount my K341 in it as a temp fix, which I will probably do, but I still want to get another engine for the 682. I'm looking toward the Kohler and Briggs V-Twins. They seem to be a little better engineered to last a while than the flat twins. I think it was the hills on my place that killed my KT17.

Also, just to ask, there is a Kohler Command 20hp on ebay that is built for a generator. I suspect it has a tapered shaft. How hard would it be to adapt that to a CC? I know anything can be adapted if you throw enough time, effort, and money at it, but I'm looking for a long-term solution that doesn't take forever to do and cost an arm and a leg.

Just got to thinking, I wish I could find an SGT with no engine and just start from there, rather than doing the same thing on my 682. If I can get my K341 in the 682 and working, maybe I'll just start watching for something like that. The K341 will eventually end up back in my 1650.

A few pics of my nicely ventilated engine case and other carnage. Crank looks beautiful, except for where #2 rod bearing friction welded to the journal.

blown kt17 003.jpg blown kt17 005.jpg

blown kt17 007.jpg blown kt17 004.jpg

[MWShaw]

At minimum you will need a crank that will accept you PTO, and a "closure" plate that has the same oil pressure relief provisions.

I'm not done yet, but do believe I'm on the road to combine a generator motor, with a tractor motor.

The gen set I bought was from an RV, the motor had no stator, fuel pump (well it did have a fuel pump, but it was electric.), and all of the tins were different, as was the exhaust. The carb had an electric choke, and the governor was set to run at 1600rpms, versus 3600 for the Cub motor.

See my trials here.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=16827
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=17197

If I had it to do over, I would take a long hard look at the Vanguard re-power through SEW.

You know, I''ll just throw this out there, You holed the opposite case, from mine. Mine is a series II, but I would send you that crankcase half, and two good standard rods, if that would help you out? Now before you say it, they do not recommend replacing only one half of the crankcase, but you might get lucky, and the cases line up? I could drill the rod caps for you, if I knew where to drill them, and what size hole. Long shot, but your crank looks like it would polish out?

You could maybe get it to run long enough to map out your long term fix?


There is a place north of me, they build these motors, and shipping is relatively cheap, you might call them? I HAVE NEVER DEALT WITH THEM, I JUST SEE THEIR C/L ADS!!!
http://thumb.craigslist.org/grq/2965251143.html

[Matt G.]

Crankcase halves are line-bored for the crank and cam, so on an engine you care about I wouldn't swap one. I'm also not totally sure you can use Series II case halves on a Series I since the oiling system is so different.

[steveyrock]

http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/...56447-IH682-R1