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  #21  
Old 04-23-2012, 08:12 AM
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CADplans CADplans is offline
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I agree with ol'George, the starter is probably good!!

That post for the battery cable IS connected to ground by some pretty heavy wire!!

That is why the starter pulls so many amps, and makes enough force to spin over an engine!!
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  #22  
Old 04-23-2012, 09:04 AM
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BIGMOZEKE BIGMOZEKE is offline
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Hey Guys.......thanks for the push on this.
I think that I see the problem in the diagrams. This is driving me crazy as I am not home to go check it out RIGHT NOW !!!...
For the most part, I just unplugged and replugged everything in on that tractor when I put the motor in it without knowing that anything could have been wrong but now I see that the problem may be the wrong wire is going back to the solenoid. Will check it out ASAP tonight when I get home and post the findings.
Also CADPlans said that if it started the engine that everything with the starter should be fine...this thing is dead shorted to ground so I am sure that there has to be something inside the starter case that is grounding out that can't be good.
I will get the charging problem worked out first and then work on the starter.

Thanks a bunch guys.......you are all a great bunch.
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  #23  
Old 04-23-2012, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGMOZEKE View Post
Hey Guys.......thanks for the push on this.
I think that I see the problem in the diagrams. This is driving me crazy as I am not home to go check it out RIGHT NOW !!!...
For the most part, I just unplugged and replugged everything in on that tractor when I put the motor in it without knowing that anything could have been wrong but now I see that the problem may be the wrong wire is going back to the solenoid. Will check it out ASAP tonight when I get home and post the findings.
Also CADPlans said that if it started the engine that everything with the starter should be fine...this thing is dead shorted to ground so I am sure that there has to be something inside the starter case that is grounding out that can't be good.
I will get the charging problem worked out first and then work on the starter.

Thanks a bunch guys.......you are all a great bunch.
ok,
if you take the starter apart you will see that it is not a dead short, but it is the continuity through the heavy windings,through the brushes to ground--perfectly normal!
I admire your quest for knowlege but sometimes you just have to "believe" Ha,LOL!
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  #24  
Old 04-23-2012, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
ok,
if you take the starter apart you will see that it is not a dead short, but it is the continuity through the heavy windings,through the brushes to ground--perfectly normal!
I admire your quest for knowlege but sometimes you just have to "believe" Ha,LOL!
Remember, V=I*R , R=V/I

The Voltage is 12. The I (current) is probably 50 to 100

Therefore, the Resistance of the starter is 0.25 to 0.10 ohm

That is pretty close to a dead short on most ohm meters.

Especially if it is the type with the needle that moves.
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  #25  
Old 04-23-2012, 11:53 PM
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Cub-N-It Cub-N-It is offline
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Joe, just my two cents, but if you are concerned with the charging system ( someone mentioned the flywheel magnets ) check the A/C output of the stator coil. You should be getting around 28-30 volts ac. Somebody jump in if I am not correct about the magnum 18hp Kohler. Tonight I had to reinstall 4 magnets to the inside of the flywheel on my KT-17 series 2 Kohler engine. Joe if you have to reinstall any of your magnets be sure to check and recheck polarity before JB Welding them back into place. PM me if you need help with that.
Van
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  #26  
Old 04-24-2012, 08:53 AM
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Well guys......not sure if I will find anything else or not but last night went through section 8 of the manual and of course followed their basic instructions and found that the solenoid was shorted internally to ground. So I will be picking up a new one tonight.
Also, after I get it running again, I will check out the other items as well including the output from the stator, voltage at the battery etc. Will post the results of the findings tomorrow.
Thanks for all of the help again and Van.......I hope that I don't have the magnet issue.
But will let you know if that comes up.
Joe
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  #27  
Old 04-24-2012, 10:47 AM
super1914 super1914 is offline
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Looks like you have a few things to look at but wanted to throw my 2 cents in here. My 1914 (basically the 982) was showing discharge on the ammeter as well and would kill batteries. I replaced a variety of parts before figuring out that my air gap was not properly set in my front PTO. I got that adjusted per the manual and the discharge issue went away. With your motor replacement this might not be the problem, but I didn't want to sit back if I could be of any help.
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Proud owner of "Big Al" Cub Cadet 1914
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  #28  
Old 04-24-2012, 11:26 AM
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Thanks for that info Adam and I will certainly file that away if I come across it.
Right now, I have the PTO and all of the lights disconnected just to make sure that everything else is okay before moving on to the "accessories".

Joe
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  #29  
Old 04-24-2012, 09:10 PM
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Well, I am past frustrated. Replaced the starter solenoid today and it started just fine.
The motor would not shut off and I remembered that my buddy was over and had changed out the key switch with another one that was laying there from and old tractor so, I swapped them back out and then the tractor started okay, ammeter was good, took a quick reading to check that the stator was charging and it was working just fine....but still, the motor would not shut off !!
Getting ready to go on a trip so I won't be able to mess with this thing for a few days.
My next step will be to go through the key switch and check to make sure that the contacts work like they should and make sure that none are shorted. Also need to track down to make sure that the kill wire is intact.........what a pain in the back side....but i know that it will be worth it..........I think.

Joe
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  #30  
Old 04-24-2012, 09:13 PM
Methos Methos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGMOZEKE View Post
Well, I am past frustrated. Replaced the starter solenoid today and it started just fine.
The motor would not shut off and I remembered that my buddy was over and had changed out the key switch with another one that was laying there from and old tractor so, I swapped them back out and then the tractor started okay, ammeter was good, took a quick reading to check that the stator was charging and it was working just fine....but still, the motor would not shut off !!
Getting ready to go on a trip so I won't be able to mess with this thing for a few days.
My next step will be to go through the key switch and check to make sure that the contacts work like they should and make sure that none are shorted. Also need to track down to make sure that the kill wire is intact.........what a pain in the back side....but i know that it will be worth it..........I think.

Joe
Joe, I'm thinking the break is going to help you out. This is a hobby don't let it stress you out.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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