Operation "Redemption" KT17 rebuild

[Matt G.]

Originally Posted by MWShaw

In my defense, the tip of the sand blaster never came within 18" of the heads, I was just trying to remove the carbon. I could have sworn I read that in the service manual, where it was a recomended proceedure. But after I read you comment I went back and rechecked it, and it is not there. I must have seeing things. I have not fired the engine up yet, so I think it will be fine.

[snip]

I am working out the location of the remote filter head, most likely I'll put it below the gas tank. I am a little bummed about the oil pressure gauge. The only spot on the dash board where It will fit is rigth where it say "Cub Cadet" embossed in the plastic dash. But oh well. Such is life I guess.

You could use glass beads, walnut shells, etc, but not sand. It doesn't matter how close you got, It's very clear in the picture that the surface is very rough and pitted. Even if you cleaned up the gasket surface, new carbon would stick readily to the rough surface of the combustion chamber and be nearly impossible to remove in the future.

Here's a suggestion: There's no need to see the hourmeter while the tractor is in use, so stick that under the hood somewhere and put the oil pressure gauge in its place.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by MWShaw

Some how I missed this one? I did use the complete assembly from the cub motor.

Well I'm think I'm gonna risk it, as it would require splitting the cases back down.

Could be wrong but I think, the only gov. problem they had is mentioned in the service bulletin I sent along.
Do remember to re torque the heads after it comes up to temp,-- full operating temp--HOT!
or you will replace the head gaskets. BTDT
Be advised when that series of engine is hot, as in after a mowing, it will have a "valve clatter" and you'd swear they are set too loose.
IIRR I saw it in a service bulletin that,
the later Kohlers, changed the valve angle from 45* to 30* and they have a different cam ## but I don't know if it was to help the clatter or other reasons I've not been able to determine.
On the filter location, I chose to retain the one on the block:
#1, because i didn't have a remote setup,
and #2, I couldn't decide where I wanted it mounted remotely.

[MWShaw]

Originally Posted by Matt G.

Here's a suggestion: There's no need to see the hourmeter while the tractor is in use, so stick that under the hood somewhere and put the oil pressure gauge in its place.

Darn fine idea, Thanks!

Originally Posted by ol'George

Could be wrong but I think, the only gov. problem they had is mentioned in the service bulletin I sent along.
Do remember to re torque the heads after it comes up to temp,-- full operating temp--HOT!
or you will replace the head gaskets. BTDT
Be advised when that series of engine is hot, as in after a mowing, it will have a "valve clatter" and you'd swear they are set too loose.
IIRR I saw it in a service bulletin that,
the later Kohlers, changed the valve angle from 45* to 30* and they have a different cam ## but I don't know if it was to help the clatter or other reasons I've not been able to determine.
On the filter location, I chose to retain the one on the block:
#1, because i didn't have a remote setup,
and #2, I couldn't decide where I wanted it mounted remotely.

No I did not see anything in the service manual about retorguing when hot? So just leave the tins off, for the first mow?

Yeah, now I'm wishing I would have gotten the adater, to mount the filter on the block. Hindsight is 20/20.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by MWShaw

Darn fine idea, Thanks!



No I did not see anything in the service manual about retorguing when hot? So just leave the tins off, for the first mow?

Yeah, now I'm wishing I would have gotten the adater, to mount the filter on the block. Hindsight is 20/20.

monday morning quarterback Ha,LOL!
BTDT
I would not leave the tins off it gets really hot and without the tins on it, ya might do damage.
ya I know it's a pain, but most all air cooled engines really need a retorque. Better do it now than re-do the head gskts and have to retorque anyhow.
You will not believe how "loose" the bolts become!!
After you warm it up,idle @ first, run it @ 3/4 rpms while looking for things ya forgot or leaks etc. for maybe 15 min. then you can retorque.
or if you have a mow job of that duration.
The tins are not that bad to remove other than the lower bolts on the bottom.
You mentioned the lower starter bolt. when in the chassis if you have to remove the starter for some reason, a couple of extensions and a universal comming in from the front gets it done.
Also Matt G made a bent/pretzel box wrench that works good ( pix on here somewhere)
Now before you "fire" it, crank it with the plugs out for a bit as EVERYTHING is dry including the filter!!
put a couple of "squirts" of oil in the cylinders for the rings.
---On smaller engines I like to fill with oil to proper level then tumble them
360* while holding in my hands to get oil on the internal parts, it sure as heck don't hurt anything, if done quickly.
Luck!

[MWShaw]

Man those genset heads were in good shape. I could not get .0015" under them anywhere. I put a piece of 400 on a granite surface plate, cleaned them up a little, then checked them with the feelers. Drilled out the broken 1/4s, ran a tap in there, will swap them out with the other heads.

Went to HD, and bought an assortment of 1/8 NPT fittings, the flexi hoses that came on the remote oil filter head, need a little help. A few 90s and short nipples should be the ticket.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by MWShaw

Man those genset heads were in good shape. I could not get .0015" under them anywhere. I put a piece of 400 on a granite surface plate, cleaned them up a little, then checked them with the feelers. Drilled out the broken 1/4s, ran a tap in there, will swap them out with the other heads.

Went to HD, and bought an assortment of 1/8 NPT fittings, the flexi hoses that came on the remote oil filter head, need a little help. A few 90s and short nipples should be the ticket.

those last 2 sentences sure could be twisted but I won't go there,as this is a family forum.
If you decide on going with the location on the block lemmeknow I'll shoot ya a pix of how it looks (it's rainning now) sure works/looks slick.

[MWShaw]

Originally Posted by ol'George

those last 2 sentences sure could be twisted but I won't go there,as this is a family forum.
If you decide on going with the location on the block lemmeknow I'll shoot ya a pix of how it looks (it's rainning now) sure works/looks slick.

Yeah, I was typing fast, I maybe should have proof read that?

Thanks for the offer of the pics, if you get the chance that would be great, I most likely committed to the remote one, I may have past the point of no return, on that.

What did that helicopter pilot say, in that predator movie? "PSR" / "Point of Safe Return"?

[Vince_o]

George

some good info you have passed on.

LOL short nipples thats good.

Ive been buying the adapters off ebay when I can to put the oil filter on the side of the block. I dont have any idea why they used a remote filter on these engs with the cub spec number. It seems that every one leaks around the oil lines.

[MWShaw]

Originally Posted by Vince_o

George

some good info you have passed on.

LOL short nipples thats good.

Ive been buying the adapters off ebay when I can to put the oil filter on the side of the block. I dont have any idea why they used a remote filter on these engs with the cub spec number. It seems that every one leaks around the oil lines.

Yes George has, As have you Matt, and others. Thanks for all the input, and help getting this motor done correct. I want it back to it's old dependable self. I do appreciate it, from all you.

The remote filter I bought was off of an Toro Z355? it had a 25hp Kohler in it. I really hope the lines don't leak, but if it does, I'll fix it.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by MWShaw

Yes George has, As have you Matt, and others. Thanks for all the input, and help getting this motor done correct. I want it back to it's old dependable self. I do appreciate it, from all you.

The remote filter I bought was off of an Toro Z355? it had a 25hp Kohler in it. I really hope the lines don't leak, but if it does, I'll fix it.

Short nipples? don't need no short nipples ha,LOL!