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  #21  
Old 04-05-2012, 11:28 AM
hydrocub hydrocub is offline
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Location: VA
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I have the same issue with the idler pully almost touching the axle . Tightening the tension bolt does nothing for the idler ratchet side .
How do you install the spring ? DX3?
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  #22  
Old 04-05-2012, 06:11 PM
krhoover krhoover is offline
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: PA
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Hydrocub, I don't know what kind of problems you are having, but if you read back thru the thread you can see what mine were. I put on 3 new blades and a new belt and it fixed mine. I don't know if it was the blades or the belt, but it runs smooth now. I hope this tdeck dos'nt need new blades on a regular basis. My old wheelhorse had 10 yr old blades on it that I really abused and it never had problems. I would raise the deck up and mow saplimgs with it.
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  #23  
Old 04-05-2012, 06:38 PM
hydrocub hydrocub is offline
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Good to hear krhoover ! So, you have no more slack in the spring side pully ?
In other words , the pully is even and not to close to the axle? Did you
change how you put your spring on ?
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  #24  
Old 04-06-2012, 07:52 AM
krhoover krhoover is offline
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No slack, everthing appears to be be working as it should. If you can read the size of the belt in the pic, it measures 1/2"x81"x1/2". Maybe your belt is to long and causing your slack? This is the belt I got at the dealer. It looks well made and heavier than the other belts he had. He told me they don't stock the MTD belts as they feel they don't have the quality of these belts. He also had a Stens belt, but the Pix looked better to me. They were about the same price. He said they use the Pix belts on the larger equip they sell and service and has worked well.
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File Type: jpg 1450 PTO BELT 002.jpg (22.3 KB, 73 views)
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  #25  
Old 04-10-2012, 09:48 AM
samiam44 samiam44 is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Texas
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"Took the rod out today and it has grooves wore in it where the stuff was riding on it. The two holes that it goes thru on each side of the mule drive itself are egg shaped. Whats the fix for this, just leave it alone, weld heavy washers over the holes, or weld plates over them and redrill? The holes on the brackets that rod runs thru that the pulleys are mounted on are the same way.
"

Traditionally for linkage stuff, I would braze the holes a bit. If I have a 1/2 chucking reamer, I'd try and hold the arm in a vice and use a mill to get a nice hole. or possibly open up the hole and put a flanged bushing into the hold. Then it's replaceable.

I'm hoping my new belt will take care of the hammering.. there was a burn spot in my old belt. Some new pulleys. If not, I'll make a new bar as suggested.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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