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#21
01-21-2012, 04:00 PM
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Heating was mentioned,
A propane torch is a poor excuse of a heat source as all it does is heat up both the shaft as well as the hub, because it is a slow heating process. A acetylene/oxy setup heats quickly the hub, allowing it to expand several thousands and with the pressure of the puller already applying force, it just easily comes apart, before the shaft gets a chance to heat up. You need to quickly heat one side of the hub, in one spot, not all around because all around will cause the the shaft to heat up also. Maybe you have a friend with a act/oxy setup??? The other way as mentioned it slitting the hub I have skinned many a cat in my years, using a quick heat/expansion method. I wish you the best of luck! 
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#23
01-21-2012, 06:33 PM
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air hammer....aha..gotcha!
Oh yes, there is an air hammer, and a number of attachments, in the kit that came along with the air impact driver. I used a center drill to locate and develop a nice center divot in the shaft for the purpose of centering and holding the 3 jaw puller in place. I suppose I could use the air hammer and its rather pointed attachment into that center divot in the hopes of developing a lot more vibration....possibly allowing the Blaster to get into the inner spline.
Oh well, tomorrow will be yet another day of frustrating and dirty work on the Cub Cadet....heh heh.... 8>) Oh I am just having soooo much fun with this toy tractor. :>( not !!! Jim
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#24
01-21-2012, 08:52 PM
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Steering Wheel
I just removed three steering wheels on two 100's & a 70 using Brian Millers method with a automotive steering wheel remover & a bearing separator tool...Worked well.
Good Luck,Bruce
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#25
01-21-2012, 09:49 PM
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good tip to use an oxy-acetylene torch on it.
Yes, the oxy/acetylene torch to heat one side sounds like another very good idea.....however, I sold my gas torch rig and now I have just a MIG welder....probably not so good for general heating like this. LOL.
I wonder if I would get better results by using a MAPP gas torch on it? I do have some of that gas lying around here, and it is a much hotter burning gas than propane. I am now into the soak...soak...soak it in Blaster method. I'll let that run for a few more days while I try to take a break from the frustration. I think my next project on this tractor will be to re-do the coupling on the drive shaft. I believe it HAD a sort of shear pin...which is now gone, and now the coupling is only secured onto the shaft by one set bolt. That'll be another tight little area that will probably give me more aggravation. Sometimes I wonder why I do these things. Lately I am wondering why much more than usual...heh heh. I believe it's like knocking my head against a wall.....I know it'll feel better when I stop!!!! Bye for now. Jim
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#26
01-22-2012, 01:15 AM
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Matt G. has posted on this topic several times in the past. Here is a picture of what he suggested. I have never had to use this yet, as I have always been able to pull them off without any assistance, but others have stated in the past that it is very effective. Hope it helps and thanks Matt G.!
Cub Cadet 123
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Still don't know what I'm doing in OHIO?.....If you find me, then please point me back toward INDIANA. 
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#27
01-22-2012, 08:15 AM
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That looks very effective !
By the way, use the occasional rap (impact, not doggerel) in between the PB soaking... John
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#28
01-22-2012, 09:19 AM
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I like that new puller arrangement.
Maybe thats my project for the day. I'll bore a steering column size hole in a strong 2X4, then split the 2X4 in two, lengthwise. Drill bolt holes to hold the two half's tightly together on the column. Drill holes for the harmonic balance puller bolts and put nice big fender washers under the 2X4 as I assemble it all onto the column. That plan would eliminate the problems with the 3 jaw set-up, as it was pulling off the wheel hub time after time.
I could leave the set-up under tension and soak it with Blaster several times each day until it finally pops off. The application of the air hammer every once in a while would help too. And maybe the MAPP gas torch too! And I was wondering what I may do with myself to relax on this day. 8>) LOL Thanks again for the tips . Jim
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#29
01-22-2012, 11:11 AM
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Use a piece of oak as Matt did on it.Doug Fir is soft and it will get drawn into the wheel.
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Up to 533 and counting... I give up updating my profile!
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#30
01-22-2012, 11:39 AM
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Jim,
I know this is giving you fits! The way i was told and removed one on the 147 was this way. Remove the bolts holding the steering box to the frame. Let the steering box move down untill the base of the steering wheel rests on the dash. Put the steering wheel nut back on fhush with the end of the shaft or a little above to try to avoid thread damage. Use a brass rod or some thing to beat on against the nut. So your not hitting directly on the nut. get your 3 lb hammer and in several good hard whacks it should be off. I think the weight of the steering assembly helps this come apart. (this may have been mentioned and I may have missed it) Yes it sounds like a lot of work but these splines generally do not just fall off. Regards, Chris
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Casbohm Maple and Honey www.mapleandhoney.com Cubs: 147R and the "train", 127 elec lift, 127, 125, 106, 102, 100, 86, 73, Brinly plow, Snow thrower, 2 Rototillers, several mower decks and several snow plows, #1 cart, Grandkids barrel cart.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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