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  #21  
Old 01-04-2012, 08:42 PM
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yesmar74 yesmar74 is offline
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Default left for dead
The guy didn't think he had much and I did get it cheeeeap. I looked at another 782 with engine problems today. Is there issues with these KT17s? I've got a 73- 149 with boo koo hours and it's never been down.
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1973 149 with 44" Deck, 782 with Simms cab, 1966 102 with 38" deck, 50" deck, 5 42" Blade, Brinly 8" 3- point Plow, Brinly 10' Sleeve hitch Plow, Brinly 12' 3-point Plow, 782 Pile, 2-38' Decks, QA-42A,1650 Roller, QA42 Thrower, Kubota BX 2360, 1970 IH one ton 4x4, one 1959 farmall cub restored, two 1949 farmall cub projects, cub grader blade, 5 sickle bar mowers , 1 set cutivators , 1 fast hitch plow, 1. 1950s IH hay rake
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  #22  
Old 01-04-2012, 09:04 PM
ajgross ajgross is offline
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There was a oiling issue with the Series 1 KT's. The engine was pressure lubed, but they didn't pressure lube the rod journals. When you get it on a angle, it starts staving one journal of oil causing it to blow up. They fixed this issue with the Series 2 engines.

AJ
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1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]482- Stock
1981 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]582- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring assist
1979 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]682- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring Assist, #1 Tiller
1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]782- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch
1983 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]982- Stock, Fully Optioned
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  #23  
Old 01-04-2012, 10:43 PM
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Tater305 Tater305 is offline
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Originally Posted by 72-149 View Post
im glad you said "most" a lot of people who do that think they have a gold mine !!!
yeah I have ran across a couple people like that. They think the tractor is worth 3 times the amount its really worth just because it says Cub cadet or International that its worth at least $500 not matter what condition its in....I have seen a tractor in that shape been outside and the motor was blown and the guy wanted $600 for it
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  #24  
Old 01-05-2012, 07:55 AM
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thenrie thenrie is offline
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I have never tried it, so somebody else might chime in on it, but your engine case might be salvageable. Since the hole in it is only "about the size of a dime", you can probably patch it with JB weld, or maybe drill it out to perfectly round and plug it. Your crankshaft might be fine, or maybe just need a re-grind on the rod and main journals. The rest can be had on the used market, if you can't find them new. I'm betting you can rebuild it for $3-400, rather than spending upwards of $1200 for an engine somebody else rebuilt, or $2000 for a new one. Then again, if I could afford it, I'd be re-powering with one of the newer OHV V-twin engines.

Since I have a KT17 Series 1 in my 682, I'm going to start trying to cross-reference parts and see whether I can use parts from other engines to replace NLA parts. Right now it's running fine, but eventually I'll need to overhaul it. I'm thinking that parts, such as rods, pistons, heads, cylinders, and valves are probably pretty similar between the various iterations of the Kohler flathead twins and might be adaptable. Might even be able to use some B&S parts.

Try this link, somebody posted a while back. Might be a place to start:

http://kustomsmallengine.com/main.sc
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  #25  
Old 01-05-2012, 03:52 PM
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You can use Magnum rods in a Series I if you really want to, you just have to drill the oil hole in the rod cap. One of the blown Series I engines I have had was blown because somebody rebuilt it with Magnum parts without putting the oil hole in the rod caps...you can imagine how long that lasted...
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  #26  
Old 01-05-2012, 04:53 PM
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yesmar74 yesmar74 is offline
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Default 782 block
You guys sure got me thinking. Sounds like about what I suspected that maybe the hole could be plugged, filled, or even welded. My main concern is the crank.
Thanks Guys,
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1973 149 with 44" Deck, 782 with Simms cab, 1966 102 with 38" deck, 50" deck, 5 42" Blade, Brinly 8" 3- point Plow, Brinly 10' Sleeve hitch Plow, Brinly 12' 3-point Plow, 782 Pile, 2-38' Decks, QA-42A,1650 Roller, QA42 Thrower, Kubota BX 2360, 1970 IH one ton 4x4, one 1959 farmall cub restored, two 1949 farmall cub projects, cub grader blade, 5 sickle bar mowers , 1 set cutivators , 1 fast hitch plow, 1. 1950s IH hay rake
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  #27  
Old 01-07-2012, 06:21 AM
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Smile 782 rods
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Originally Posted by Matt G. View Post
You can use Magnum rods in a Series I if you really want to, you just have to drill the oil hole in the rod cap. One of the blown Series I engines I have had was blown because somebody rebuilt it with Magnum parts without putting the oil hole in the rod caps...you can imagine how long that lasted...
Would drilling the rod cap on a Series I be a fix also? Beeeecause I brought home another 782 basket case yesterday that came with two KT 17s. Both engines are in boxes and buckets. Not sure what series they are. The tractor is alot better shape than the first one. It's been inside it's whole life. What made it a better deal, he also had a 149 for sale that myself and (son) brucer95 had rebuilt and sold about 22 or so years ago. I didn't know he owned that 149. He knew the tractor's history and he's the one that told me. Sure enough it one that we had owned before. I thought that was pretty cool so I had to buy it too. I've got 2 tractors and 3 engines now so I hope something good will come out of this.
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1973 149 with 44" Deck, 782 with Simms cab, 1966 102 with 38" deck, 50" deck, 5 42" Blade, Brinly 8" 3- point Plow, Brinly 10' Sleeve hitch Plow, Brinly 12' 3-point Plow, 782 Pile, 2-38' Decks, QA-42A,1650 Roller, QA42 Thrower, Kubota BX 2360, 1970 IH one ton 4x4, one 1959 farmall cub restored, two 1949 farmall cub projects, cub grader blade, 5 sickle bar mowers , 1 set cutivators , 1 fast hitch plow, 1. 1950s IH hay rake
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  #28  
Old 01-07-2012, 06:52 AM
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We want pics!!
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  #29  
Old 01-07-2012, 07:29 AM
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I know alot of the guys I pull with weld holes in the blocks all the time on various types of engines under very extreme conditions, and seem to last. Is the block aluminum, if so that would be much easier to patch. Also since I couldn't make it out last night WE WANT PICS!!
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  #30  
Old 01-07-2012, 09:55 AM
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Would drilling the rod cap on a Series I be a fix also?
A 'fix' for what?

If both engines are apart in buckets it should be pretty easy to tell if they are Series I or Series II...Series I crankshafts don't have an oil passage through the mains and rod journals, and the Series II engines do. Also, the camshaft on a Series I has a couple holes drilled radially through it in line with the connecting rods to spray oil on them.
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