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  #21  
Old 02-10-2012, 09:12 PM
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Sugarmaker Sugarmaker is offline
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Maybe I missed the training on powder coating are you able to do this yourself at home?
What equip. is needed?
Regards,
Chris
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  #22  
Old 02-11-2012, 07:43 AM
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Default Solder

Solder's melting point is all over the map depending on the specific alloy. PROBABLY it's 60/40 tin lead with acid core flux. This melts in the ~375 F range, which is probably why it reflowed.

I'd not TIG the joints... one of the good things about solder is that with capillary action it's actually pulled into the small openings between two surfaces, which is what makes it so suitable for sealing gas tanks. TIG/MIG is not going to do that. I would use a harder solder (95/5 tin/lead -- plumber type) which has a significantly higher reflow temp, and use a real thermometer to measure the oven temp. The dials on ovens are notoriously inaccurate (unless you're using a Blue-M lab type oven) and could well be +/-50-75 F. They're also built with some level of hysteresis , so when they're heating the temp rises above the set point before it shuts off, and sinks BELOW the set point in the cooling phase, before it turns back on in order to keep from toggling the power on and off constantly, while trying to maintain say, a +/- 1F tolerance.

This is good training for when you'll snap a bolt off in the block or other cast iron housing. You'll become acquainted with lots of words you haven't used in polite company in quite some time! :-)

John

PS: Tank looks good!
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  #23  
Old 02-11-2012, 07:14 PM
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A powder coating shop told me once when dealing with solder you can bake the parts a few minutes at a time and pull them out to cool and put them back in but there is possability of chipping in the future.
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  #24  
Old 02-11-2012, 09:01 PM
gillis51 gillis51 is offline
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John,
Thanks for the advice, I'll try a harder or silver solder.

Part temp was 400 +/- at a few locations on the tank. Checked with a infra red thermometer.
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  #25  
Old 09-10-2012, 07:59 PM
gillis51 gillis51 is offline
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Default Finally back at it

Its been some time since Ive posted to this thread, my cub project is still alive and moving forward just ever so slowly. As soon as I got everything a part last year I was hit with some work I couldnt refuse then I had to finish my pool. Little to say the Cub as well as my other IH projects sort of took a back seat. By sort of I was able to find a 69 800A Aristocrat which unfortunatly is still sitting in the same place it was off loaded but I have been able to start collecting parts for the resto/mod.

Anyway my plan is to finish my Cub by October 2012. So far I have lots of small parts powder coated, steering rebuilt, lots of new parts, frame, fenders and hood as well as lots of medium size parts are sand blasted and awaiting powder coating.

I tore the rear end as far aprt as I paln to go. The carrier will be cleaned and rattle can painted. The axle tubes were removed and will be poweder coated though.

Question. What is the red coating that looks like heavy paint inside the axle housing and the axle tubes do. When I cook the parts will the heat damage this red coating.

For now some pictures. Hopefully will be adding some more this weekend.
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File Type: jpg Cub rear.jpg (31.2 KB, 308 views)
File Type: jpg Cub 1.jpg (18.5 KB, 307 views)
File Type: jpg cub 2.jpg (20.9 KB, 309 views)
File Type: jpg cub 3.jpg (27.1 KB, 308 views)
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  #26  
Old 09-10-2012, 10:03 PM
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Thanks for the update and pics.
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  #27  
Old 09-11-2012, 12:11 AM
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Thanks for getting back into it. Sure is something how life throws us a curve every now and again.
I think the red you're refuring to is a primer, at least the undercoat on the outside is. When I wire wheeled the rear of my 100 it was red primer, maybe the inside is a sealer of some sort. I thought I read something somewhere, that it's a rust inhibiter of sorts because the rears sat around awhile before being painted and they didn't want them rusting.
Could have just dremp that alsobut I'm pretty sure that was it. I wouldn't think your going to hurt it any, but don't take my word for it, wait for one of the pro's to chime in.
But good luck, will be watching your progress.
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  #28  
Old 12-05-2012, 06:54 PM
gillis51 gillis51 is offline
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Default Slowest Resto

After some confusion at the powder coated I got all my large parts back today and I think they look great. Ill post some pictures later tonight.

They primed everything with a zinc rich exterior grade powder then coated. Both colors are from prismatic powders. Yellow is pss 1836 and white is pss 2094. These were real close to original colors on my tractor that where hidden from sun.

Will play a little tonight and plan to get the bulk of the tractor back together this weekend. But given my past year I can only imagine what obstacle will prevent me from doing what I want.
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  #29  
Old 12-05-2012, 07:17 PM
Methos Methos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gillis51 View Post
After some confusion at the powder coated I got all my large parts back today and I think they look great. Ill post some pictures later tonight.

They primed everything with a zinc rich exterior grade powder then coated. Both colors are from prismatic powders. Yellow is pss 1836 and white is pss 2094. These were real close to original colors on my tractor that where hidden from sun.

Will play a little tonight and plan to get the bulk of the tractor back together this weekend. But given my past year I can only imagine what obstacle will prevent me from doing what I want.
I'm looking forward to your pics. I'm very interested in how the white turned out. My powder coater got the white way wrong.

Plan some time to prep your parts for assembly after powder coat.
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  #30  
Old 12-05-2012, 09:13 PM
gillis51 gillis51 is offline
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Some basic pictures
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File Type: jpg 2.jpg (29.5 KB, 228 views)
File Type: jpg 3.jpg (21.5 KB, 228 views)
File Type: jpg 4.jpg (21.2 KB, 229 views)
File Type: jpg 5.jpg (28.7 KB, 227 views)
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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