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#21
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Maybe I missed the training on powder coating are you able to do this yourself at home?
What equip. is needed? Regards, Chris
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Casbohm Maple and Honey www.mapleandhoney.com Cubs: 147R and the "train", 127 elec lift, 127, 125, 106, 102, 100, 86, 73, Brinly plow, Snow thrower, 2 Rototillers, several mower decks and several snow plows, #1 cart, Grandkids barrel cart. |
#22
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Solder's melting point is all over the map depending on the specific alloy. PROBABLY it's 60/40 tin lead with acid core flux. This melts in the ~375 F range, which is probably why it reflowed.
I'd not TIG the joints... one of the good things about solder is that with capillary action it's actually pulled into the small openings between two surfaces, which is what makes it so suitable for sealing gas tanks. TIG/MIG is not going to do that. I would use a harder solder (95/5 tin/lead -- plumber type) which has a significantly higher reflow temp, and use a real thermometer to measure the oven temp. The dials on ovens are notoriously inaccurate (unless you're using a Blue-M lab type oven) and could well be +/-50-75 F. They're also built with some level of hysteresis , so when they're heating the temp rises above the set point before it shuts off, and sinks BELOW the set point in the cooling phase, before it turns back on in order to keep from toggling the power on and off constantly, while trying to maintain say, a +/- 1F tolerance. This is good training for when you'll snap a bolt off in the block or other cast iron housing. You'll become acquainted with lots of words you haven't used in polite company in quite some time! :-) John PS: Tank looks good!
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#23
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A powder coating shop told me once when dealing with solder you can bake the parts a few minutes at a time and pull them out to cool and put them back in but there is possability of chipping in the future.
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#24
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John,
Thanks for the advice, I'll try a harder or silver solder. Part temp was 400 +/- at a few locations on the tank. Checked with a infra red thermometer. |
#25
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Its been some time since Ive posted to this thread, my cub project is still alive and moving forward just ever so slowly. As soon as I got everything a part last year I was hit with some work I couldnt refuse then I had to finish my pool. Little to say the Cub as well as my other IH projects sort of took a back seat. By sort of I was able to find a 69 800A Aristocrat which unfortunatly is still sitting in the same place it was off loaded but I have been able to start collecting parts for the resto/mod.
Anyway my plan is to finish my Cub by October 2012. So far I have lots of small parts powder coated, steering rebuilt, lots of new parts, frame, fenders and hood as well as lots of medium size parts are sand blasted and awaiting powder coating. I tore the rear end as far aprt as I paln to go. The carrier will be cleaned and rattle can painted. The axle tubes were removed and will be poweder coated though. Question. What is the red coating that looks like heavy paint inside the axle housing and the axle tubes do. When I cook the parts will the heat damage this red coating. For now some pictures. Hopefully will be adding some more this weekend. |
#26
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Thanks for the update and pics.
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Allen Proud owner of my Original and 126! My Grandpa's Cart Craftsman Lawn Sweeper Craftsman Plug Aerator |
#27
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Thanks for getting back into it. Sure is something how life throws us a curve every now and again.
I think the red you're refuring to is a primer, at least the undercoat on the outside is. When I wire wheeled the rear of my 100 it was red primer, maybe the inside is a sealer of some sort. I thought I read something somewhere, that it's a rust inhibiter of sorts because the rears sat around awhile before being painted and they didn't want them rusting. Could have just dremp that also ![]() But good luck, will be watching your progress.
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! ![]() |
#28
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After some confusion at the powder coated I got all my large parts back today and I think they look great. Ill post some pictures later tonight.
They primed everything with a zinc rich exterior grade powder then coated. Both colors are from prismatic powders. Yellow is pss 1836 and white is pss 2094. These were real close to original colors on my tractor that where hidden from sun. Will play a little tonight and plan to get the bulk of the tractor back together this weekend. But given my past year I can only imagine what obstacle will prevent me from doing what I want. |
#29
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![]() Plan some time to prep your parts for assembly after powder coat. |
#30
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Some basic pictures
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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