k321 rebuild - Page 3

Methos · #21 11-12-2011, 10:13 PM

Awesome pics too!

Matt G. · #22 11-12-2011, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrGitrdone41

You have to ream them you can do that with a 5/16 drillbit.

A drill bit is for drilling holes, and a reamer is for making them a very accurate diameter with a very good surface finish. A drill bit will do neither of those things. Use the right tool for the job.

krhoover · #23 11-13-2011, 10:37 AM

Thanks for all the info, advice. I have a freind who's relative builds racing engines. He' going to grind the valves for me. I checked valve clearence with a feeler gauge before taking out the valves, they were wide. Could that have caused the noise I heard? It didn't smoke on start up, but will look into the valve guides, if they drive out from the top, I assume new ones are put in from the top? I have this old motor that is a K301as, would the cam fit this 14 hp? Are there any seals or bushings that need replaced when putting in another cam? Is it hard to change out? I thought about using a dremmel tool to round off the edges of that chipped tooth. Matt G, the other gears seemed okay, I think thats just the pic, but will look them over. I didn't see any metal chips or filings of any kind in there, but didn't check the pan I drained the oil into, thanks. The piston has STND stamped on it along with some #'s. I checked the bore dia, with a set of calipers and got 3.497", and cant feel a ridge on the cyl wall. Would milling some off the head help in any way? I could ask the guys at work do that. If so, how much? What about the electric PTO melted wire connector, and rebuilding it. Also did you notice the two different types of ISO in the pic. How can you tell if they are bad. The two in the front are smaller and the rubber seems softer than the two rear ones. Setting up the PC in the garage was a big help, had this site and all the tech stuff a click away.

jbrewer · #24 11-13-2011, 10:56 AM

I'd spray some oil in there before bearing surfaces begin to pit.

krhoover · #25 11-13-2011, 11:01 AM

jbrewer, that pic is of a blown k301s that I was refering to about using the cam out of it in the k321s, but thats not a bad idea, I,ll do it as its stored in an out building.

Dave R · #26 11-13-2011, 03:49 PM

Someone mentioned the engine knocking noise. Mine was doing that before I tore it down. The governor gears were loose in there and practically fell out on their own.

I wish I had taken the governor gears out and put it back together and see what happened, but I didn't think that far down the road.

Looks like if they came out during operations they would digest into the moving parts and tear up something for sure.
Dave in SW Missouri

Matt G. · #27 11-13-2011, 06:01 PM

The 12 hp cam is the same...I would not take a chance on the one that's in there. You'll need bearing plate gaskets. Also, you cannot measure the bore, piston, crankpin, etc with a pair of calipers. A micrometer is more accurate, and therefore the correct tool. There are details in the service manual about correctly measuring the bore.

krhoover · #28 11-13-2011, 06:39 PM

Getting the valves ground tommorrow. I was mistaken about the blown motor I want to swap cams with. It is a K241as. Will it still work. And when switching the cam, do I use the rod that was with the used cam, or should I use the one out of the motor I am putting it in? I put a pic up that shows the field (?) of the electric PTO. The insulation looks bad on it to me. That prob is why the wire connector was melted. It also needs a bearing. I haven't looked for repair parts for it yet and don't know if there available. If I remember, I think the dealer told me he didn't think so. I'm wondering if an electric motor shop can wind new ones in there? The pics of the ISO mounts show two different kinds. The small ones need replaced, which are factory and which are aftermarket, one of the front snubbers are gone also. I did the cradel mod also. Matt, I used a set of veneer digital calipers to measure with, but could only get down the cyl wall about an inch. I will ask the guy doing the valves to mic things out for me. I'm sure I'm forgetting something, so I will be back for more advice for sure, thanks

Matt G. · #29 11-13-2011, 06:54 PM

The K241-K341 cams are the same, so that will work. I would keep the pin with the cam.

If any of those ISO-mounts are soft, they need replacing. Those you think are aftermarket look a lot like the new OEM mounts.

You might be able to get the clutch coil rewound, but buying a used clutch would probably be cheaper. Or you could rewind it yourself, but that is not a project to take on unless you are ambitious.

krhoover · #30 11-13-2011, 07:15 PM

There are two different sizes of ISO mounts, and the bigger ones look new. The two smaller are wore out and are soft. The other thing I forgot about was the govenor gear. From what I can see, the gear in the 14hp is plastic. The one in the k241 is steel, is it better than the plastic one and should I swap them out? Also, since this 14 hp has the std piston in it, would just a set of rings make any difference? It didn't notice it useing oil.