Cub cadet 107 Negative battery ground

[Cubcrazy]

Originally Posted by Hlopez

I am having rewiring my 107 cub cadet have tried several wiring schematics with no reward, I need help.

Welcome to OCC!

[Cub Cadet 123]

You can find the correct schematic in our technical section of the forum or just click here and scroll down:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=35

Cub Cadet 123

[PaulS]

I have repaired wiring on most of my cubs at one time or another. I recently used a whole new wiring harness that my son bought. I can say that the harness not only contains all the correct size and wire colors and correct for length but had all the connectors attached. For most of our old machines the wires have endured a lot of extreme temp variations and are work hardened so to speak nor to mention being exposed to all that vibration. Current wiring I assume is better able to handle those extremes than products from 40 or 50 years ago. Even if not much better my old harness lasted about 49 years so I should not have to worry about it for the rest of my life. I believe it took Eric and I only about an hour to install the new harness.

[gophred]

I make my own wire harnesses. I am also starting to use a trick I learned wiring trailers. Rather than rely on the frame as part of the ground, I ran an additional wire from the where the ground normally bolts to the frame at the battery to the where the S/G is grounded to the frame. I have a camp mower (rusty) that always has ground problems, even with a star washer between the fender and the frame, when ever it turns over slowly I get the socket, loosen and retighten it and it's good, so I figure why not bypass the problem with a wire? I am doing the same on the 129 I just painted up, since all that paint will not help.

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by gophred

I make my own wire harnesses. I am also starting to use a trick I learned wiring trailers. Rather than rely on the frame as part of the ground, I ran an additional wire from the where the ground normally bolts to the frame at the battery to the where the S/G is grounded to the frame.

This is an excellent idea. I've done this a couple times, too, and am doing that on my "deal on a 1000" build thread currently in progress. I have even run ground wires to the lights to remove dependency on chassis grounds.

[ACecil]

Originally Posted by Hlopez

I am having rewiring my 107 cub cadet have tried several wiring schematics with no reward, I need help.

Welcome to OCC! Glad to have you!

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by gophred

Rather than rely on the frame as part of the ground, I ran an additional wire from the where the ground normally bolts to the frame at the battery to the where the S/G is grounded to the frame.

As long as your battery is grounded good to the chassis, there is no reason to be scared of a chassis ground. No reason for extra wires. I always ground to the chassis. If there is an issue, I clean the grounds. On a cub, there is what, like 3 grounding points?

[gophred]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

If there is an issue, I clean the grounds. On a cub, there is what, like 3 grounding points?

or none if you wire it directly
I started that on the camp mower, it is used by a few guys and if it is not turn key and mow it doesn't get done. It is overkill, but for me wire is free and time is cheap so I have been doing it as part of the rewire process

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

As long as your battery is grounded good to the chassis, there is no reason to be scared of a chassis ground. No reason for extra wires. I always ground to the chassis. If there is an issue, I clean the grounds. On a cub, there is what, like 3 grounding points?

One for each tail light, one for the headlights, one for the starter relay, one for the starter to the frame and one from the battery to the frame. I count 6, excluding breaker points, spark plug (no choice there), and condenser, which ground to the engine (which is, hopefully) grounded to the frame.