What a rag - Page 20

twoton · #**191** 07-19-2015, 04:34 PM

And fired it up! Ignition was instant, faster than ever before. And the exhaust pipe (sink drain pipe) that I put on quickly began to turn a nice shade of purple. I set the initial idle at 1400rpm and adjusted the idle fuel mix. Let it run for about half an hour at about half throttle and shut it down. Drained the oil again, inspected the magnet on the drain plug, and refilled with Mobil One full synthetic 10 w 30. Let it all fully cool down and re torqued the head bolts to 35 ft-lbs (what do you mean I have to take the fuel tank and fire wall off again!?).

Edit: I have since switched to Shell Rotella 30wt.

twoton · #**192** 07-19-2015, 04:36 PM

Now I just have to drop the idle down to 1000, set the WOT @ 3600 and adjust the air fuel mix. Should be ready to cut grass tomorrow morning!

From page 10 of the Quiet Line Operators Manual;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...0468#post30468

twoton · #**193** 07-19-2015, 04:37 PM

I continue to benefit greatly from the valuable information found on this site that is available thanks to a lot of very knowledgeable people, thank you all very much! I am grateful.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...50&postcount=6

Bob95065 · #**194** 07-24-2015, 06:22 PM

Aren't the engine tins there to guide cooling air from the flywheel over the head? You may want to reconsider leaving them off.

Bob95065 · #**195** 07-24-2015, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

my 1000's clutch. With HD clutch arm installed, and original arm next to the assembly for comparison.

Lew, I can't see what is wrong with twoton's assembly.

Where did you get the HD clutch arm?

This thread has been really helpful. I am getting ready to rebuild the clutch on my 1000 and I learned a lot here. Being more of a woodworker than a welder I appreciated the hardwood clutch spring compression tool.

Thanks!

j4c11 · #**196** 07-24-2015, 06:32 PM

Any issues running synthetic 10w-30?

twoton · #**197** 07-24-2015, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by j4c11

Any issues running synthetic 10w-30?

So, j4c11, Years ago some guy at a small engine shop told me that full synthetics were no good in air cooled engines as they coated the cylinder walls, reducing their cooling ability so I have always stayed away from them for that purpose. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic in my work van, Shell Rotella in my big truck and have always used a quality 30 wt in air cooled stuff. Then I found this;

“After approximately 50 hours were obtained on my Kohler, I switched to Mobil 1, 10W-30 synthetic oil. The chrome top compression ring on a cast iron bore takes a while to break in properly, and 50 hours is considered about average. A pure synthetic lubricant in an air-cooled engine is ideal, mainly due to the higher oil temperatures these engines generate when compared to their liquid cooled counterparts. The synthetic maintains a more stable viscosity and offers higher film strengths at temperature plus superior dispersant and detergent additives.”

From here;

http://www.kirkengines.com/downloads...hlerPartII.pdf

So it’s kind of an experiment.

p.s. that “some guy” from years ago, he went out of business.

j4c11 · #**198** 07-24-2015, 09:33 PM

Interesting, the manual says:

"Straight 30-weight oil is preferred. SAE 10W-30 oil is not recommended above 32F. Using this oil substantially increases oil consumption and combustion chamber deposits. "

Which is why I was asking. Keep us posted.

twoton · #**199** 07-24-2015, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob95065

Where did you get the HD clutch arm?

This thread has been really helpful. I am getting ready to rebuild the clutch on my 1000 and I learned a lot here. Being more of a woodworker than a welder I appreciated the hardwood clutch spring compression tool.

Thanks!

Bob, I did not have to replace my release arm. It was in good condition, except for the bolt ovals, I mean holes which I fixed and as I used the blue spring, which is a good middle of the road spring I did not feel that I needed the heavier arm. But… I think you can find them here if you need.

http://midwestsupercub.net/MWSC2015.pdf

Item #10 on page 11. You might want to call them to find out which one would work for your application.

bocephus1991 · #**200** 07-24-2015, 10:42 PM

Looks good! I'd try and get the tins back on it. I have mine off the head yet keep forgetting to get it back on after retorquing last year! Lol and the other cub had a mouse nest built on top of the head after my dad using it for 2 weeks!!! Was the nastiest mess! I don't know about using synthetic oil in there, but tha is your choice. One thing is if it has any leaks they will show up now.