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  #11  
Old 04-02-2011, 03:31 PM
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Kelpie Kelpie is offline
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Thanks for the advice. Looks like I'll have to pull the cam to get to the governor. I'll see what the shop can do to make my life a little easier.

The crank bearing is still in the block and I have no way of getting it out. Will that pose a problem when they bore it? I kind of think it would.
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  #12  
Old 04-04-2011, 11:37 AM
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Well, I have the cam and governor removed and taking it to the machine shop today. Should I also get a new governor shaft since I am replacing the governor?
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  #13  
Old 04-04-2011, 02:23 PM
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Well, I have the cam and governor removed and taking it to the machine shop today. Should I also get a new governor shaft since I am replacing the governor?
The governor shaft should be ok. I would replace your points pin with a steel pin. Sounds like your ready for some machining work very soon! Looking forward to your updates!
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  #14  
Old 04-04-2011, 05:24 PM
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The bearing needs to come out or it will get filled with chips and crap from the boring process, and for the low cost of the governor cross shaft, I would replace it and the brass nut to eliminate the common oil leak there, at the very least.
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  #15  
Old 04-05-2011, 11:43 PM
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Thanks for the responses. Looks like I will be replacing the piston, rod, governor and shaft, points, condenser. The valves are getting the once over too. The shop guy said he would take care of the bearing.
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  #16  
Old 04-07-2011, 06:37 PM
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Well, the cylinder was bored out to 0.010 over and the valves were done. The crankshaft measured good and was perfectly round. Should I replace the rod too?
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  #17  
Old 04-07-2011, 09:27 PM
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If it were mine I would. Just good to know everything is new.
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1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck

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2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP
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  #18  
Old 04-08-2011, 02:56 AM
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Well, the cylinder was bored out to 0.010 over and the valves were done. The crankshaft measured good and was perfectly round. Should I replace the rod too?
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If it were mine I would. Just good to know everything is new.
I agree with what Dwayne said. Nows the time to do it right so it will last.
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  #19  
Old 04-08-2011, 01:39 PM
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Have another question.

The shop said that the crank pin was perfectly round so they did not turn it, but he said it was a bit on the small side....

If I get a new rod, will there be any problems with wear since the rod would be new but the crank is old? Should I go ahead and have the crank turned to 0.010 under? The other concern with using the old rod is that the wrist pin would not have the same wear on it and may cause problems.
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  #20  
Old 04-08-2011, 01:57 PM
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Check with your machinist and see if the amount is still within kohler specs for a standard rod. If it is borderline, then I would have it turned .010 and get a rod to .010. If your putting a new piston in your will be getting a new wrist pin with it also.
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2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP
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