1450 drive shaft length ? - Page 2

clint · #11 06-10-2009, 09:28 PM

No pictures, however I finished my drive shaft today. I had to make another one of course... Anyway I did not have to pull the transmission, I made the shaft with around 1/16" space between the front of the shaft, and the motor, I slid all the mounting hardware on the shaft except the ball, then put the shaft in with the ball, I then slid the rear cast piece over the transmission shaft/ball. Doing it that way I had no problems at all, no need to pull the motor or rear to do the shaft which was a big relief for me. Also I did not measure the exact length of the shaft, however I did make it longer than the factory shaft, I didn't see any harm in doing so, it also gave me more room/error to work with. I thought about making the shaft the exact length between the motor, and the transmission shaft/ball, however I think if any flex occurs, even heat would cause a load on the pump shaft causing wear/seal heat and that would cause problems. I will snap a picture tomorrow, I'm really proud of it, looks great with the stainless... and I will never have to worry about the pitted rusty mess again.

Now I normally do things right, I should have sand blasted the cast pieces, and couplers etc, and painted them, however I don't have a lot of cash right now, and that's that.

One more note, I had two stainless shafts to work with, if you ever order a stainless shaft DO NOT get a hardened shaft, I melted a ceramic insert turning the hardened shaft, it was also not the correct diameter, so you would never get it as good as the factory ground bearing shaft by turning it, even though I was just turning the ends. All I had to do was remove .005 from the shaft, however when I was facing the shaft it was hardened all the way through.

Thanks for all the help, and pictures, and the fan picture really helped as well, now I just need to order some stainless spiral roll pins from mcmaster to call this job 100% finished.

Clint

RPalmer · #12 06-11-2009, 06:06 AM

now I just need to order some stainless spiral roll pins

I recommend using OEM or their equivalent. That way your worn pin will save the rest of the drive line. It's not like you're going to egg out their holes.

Matt G. · #13 06-11-2009, 09:47 AM

SS spirol pins are fine. The original pins are hardened steel anyway...The advantage of SS in this case is to prevent them from rusting and getting stuck, but if the tractor isn't stored outside and the pins are lubed with anti-seize or something before installation, it wouldn't be a problem anyway.

clint · #14 06-11-2009, 08:55 PM

Correct on the Stainless spiral roll pins being ok to use, they may even be softer if anything, stainless is a strange material depending on the alloy, in general stainless is not as strong as most steels, however in this case we are talking about factory mild steel which pretty much anything would be a better replacement. I just looked up the specs, and from reading spiral roll pins are 30% stronger than roll pins, I'm not worried about anything except rust, and galvanic corrosion, so that's my reason for wanting to use stainless roll pins. I did use anti-seize on everything, I'm a firm believer in anti-seize, and the correct grade of locktite in the correct places. Anti-seize is also one of the best lubes you can use in the place of grease, I lube the ball/rear of the shaft with anti-seize as well. Still getting to that picture!! I found more wrong today while working on the wiring harness, the hour meter is shot, rusted out in the back, and the clamp/plate that holds the lift valve control on the steering column was low causing a good size cut into one of my rubber hydraulic lines...

RPalmer · #15 06-11-2009, 09:23 PM

clint, Matt G, I was thinking more of the drive cup. I want my pin to wear to save it. Pins are a few bucks drive couplers are pretty close to 50 bucks. I did get new spiral pins for my drive shaft and I hope they'll not dig into my new coupler. But maybe some of that is cause from the operator being in a hurry and slamming the tractor into gear.

clint · #16 06-11-2009, 10:10 PM

I made some typos, and ramblings in my post, the spirol is the correct spelling ( sometimes spell check defeats the purpose) also the pins are harder than a preachers peck*r as well, even a normal roll pin is hard. Mcmaster has good info on roll pins, spirol, stainless, and extra strong etc. I agree RPalmer the spirol pins are cheap compared to any other part of the drive shaft, so I can see where your coming from erring on the safe side, however in this instance I think it's a upgrade using stainless spirol pins, mind you the factory spirol pins had little to no rust on them ( this comes from the heat treating/hardness) however today's material/substrate does not compare to that of the OEM at the time of the build (30 years ago). Still the spirol factory, or replacement pins are harder than any other part of the shaft. If you ever do have a problem with the coupler/cast iron piece you can always make a collar to slide over it to correct any worn side to side play.

The reason I went over board on this project is because I do that in general, also I despise rust, if they had come factory stainless all I would have done was replaced the rubber flex disc, and replace the spirol pins for good measure of faith. I also got the stainless bearing shaft free, that's always a good way to go over board with building/rebuilding. I'm still very new to all of this, and cub cadets in general, I really appreciate all of the help here, you don't know how much the picture with the fan facing the correct way helped me, when you have put a couple hours in on a lathe, looking all over for the right sized ball nose endmill for the rear of the shaft/ball, melting a ceramic insert (cha-ching$$), my brain tends to get fried.... I keep saying picture, picture picture, I will get one tomorrow, I still have a few days work to get it back together, and my wiring harness on. I did also set my brakes today, super easy, and I love the wet brake setup, when I get this baby overhauled she will be my pride, and joy... One more huge problem, my son, and my daddy both have cubs, my little 4 year old girl wants "ours" to be pink, or at least have a pink stripe down it... so in the future my little redneck girl will have a cub cadet manual with a pink stripe, or flames on it,,, when she gets old enough to drive one, mind you she can drive one now, I just have to operate the brakes for her.

Clint

Matt G. · #17 06-11-2009, 10:19 PM

Actually, 'spirol' is a brand name for coiled spring pins, kinda like 'kleenex' is for facial tissues. It's easier to type 'spirol pin' than 'coiled spring pins' all the time...

clint · #18 06-12-2009, 08:16 PM

Some pictures

#19 06-12-2009, 08:58 PM

Right on man.

hey did you put your spring clip on your fan?

Scott

clint · #20 06-13-2009, 08:05 PM

I have not put the clip on yet, the old one broke when I tried to save it, so my thoughts are to make a 6061 aluminum split collar, I thought about a set screw however not enough meat on the plastic, or the easy way out a small stainless hose clamp to secure the fan. The split aluminum collar would look best, and last forever.

Thanks for the kudos murphycc