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#11
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From a picture posted on another forum (will post if that's ok...I can't remember which one I got if from)
Stock: .5 x 1.5 x 26" Casting end: 7/8" thru hole .75" from end to center of hole Rockshaft end: 1/2" thru hole with 5/8" counterbore, 0.150" deep, 1/2" from end to center of hole. The parts lookup supports this, as the bar attaches to the rockshaft with a 1/2" clevis pin. My 782D lift bar has a counterbored 1/2" hole for the clevis pin. With a 3/4" hole, nothing's keeping the clevis pin in there, and if there is no counterbore, you won't be able to get the pin in far enough. There is almost no clearance between the lift bar and the frame rail, hence the counterbored hole... The picture Roland posted is for a NF. That bar isn't the same. |
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#12
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In the drawing part#5 is 3/4" O.D. and inside is 1/2". Made out of stainless in pic is done by a friend of mine,work great on NF,WF and speads for us.
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Fool me once shame on you,fool me twice...shame on me! |
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#13
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Here's another idea...once you pick which measurements you'd like to use, make one out of a piece of scrap wood first and make sure you get the proper range of motion. It's now clear that nobody's measurements and data seem to be completely correct, which doesn't really surprise me. I've asked on this forum and a couple others for people to measure stuff for me before, and not once have they turned out to be correct.
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#14
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Well, looks like there are a couple of versions of this Lift bar.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
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#15
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The scrap wood idea sounds pretty good. Just fab up a mock bar and then drill and or countersink to correct pin measurements. The sleeve hitch should be level when in full down mode?
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
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#16
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The one I have from a 782 is like the one Matt discribed. Could there be a difference form IH built tractors to CCC built tractors, just a thought. Mine is from an IH built 782, and is counterbored. I know your 782d is CCC built but is the 3 point original to the tractor, or could it be from an earlier tractor. Like I said just a thought!
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2013 cub cadet GTX 2100 w/IH weights 1984 cub cadet 1282 w/#2 cart, plow, IH weights 1970 IH cub cadet 73 w/fenders Haban 402d sickle bar 1966 IH cub cadet 102x2 1966 IH cub cadet 71 pull start w/Fenders IH sweeper, Brinly Gard N Cart 1965 IH cub cadet 100 w/Fenders hydro lift Brinly Gard N Cart, 3 point sleeve hitch Brinly plow sleeve hitch blade #1 cart 1965 IH cub cadet 70 w/fenders and snow plow 1961 IH Cub Cadet Original #3646 w/fenders 3 point, IH rear blade, non trip snow plow |
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#17
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I don't know where it should be when all the way down, but the first concern that popped into my head was the pin in the cast piece putting a nasty dent in the fenders when the lift is all the way up if the bar is too long. That is what will happen if you use a WF lift bar on an 82 series tractor.
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#18
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I think the last two comments are for me. The 3 point I am using is currently on my 128 that I pulled from a QL last summer. I know the WF lift bar won't work, that is why I was trying to get measurements so my buddy with a machine shop could fab me one up. I figured if anyone knew if the U shaped hitch is supposed to be level when in full downward position I could get a measurement from rockshaft to the top cast lift for the distance of the holes. I am almost positive what Matt is describing is what I need as far as a counter sink hole for the rockshaft pin to sit flush in when installed.
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
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