Slam-O-Matic drive

[RPalmer]

Originally Posted by murphycc

http://cgi.ebay.com/cub-cadet-hydros...A30%7C294%3A50

Check this out Palmer.

Scott

Looks nice! Thank you!

[RPalmer]

I just received the drive cup from the link in the last post. This is superior to OEM. Look and see. OEM (mine) two piece welded. This one is made from a solid billet. The OEM back side shows a gap between the pieces. This one will never have that because it is made from a solid billet.

[RPalmer]

murphycc, or anyone else,
The flex couple will NOT center your shaft, that's what the bushing does, without the bushing in place you will have wobble and further deterioration.

I have searched to the point of utter frustration for the bearing in the electronic parts look up. I have looked at 129,149,169 and 127 all nada. This bearing should fit in the rear coupler and then the rear coupler would go on the transmission. I'm asking for help. Thanks.

[Matt G.]

That's because previous to about 1978 in the middle of QL production, the spherical ball bushing coupler was not in use. Later Quietlines on up used the spherical ball bushing to center the driveshaft. Previous to that, the earlier QLs (and MAYBE the 1x9s) used a steel ball and a large indentation in the back of the driveshaft to center it. Previous to this, all narrowframes (and possibly the 1x9s; I don't know because I've never owned a 1x9) had a 5/16" dia. or so nub on the back of the shaft that very loosely centered in the input shaft coupler with no bushing whatsoever. In that case, the rubber coupling had to keep it somewhat coaxial, but the rear coupler itself kept the driveshaft loosely constrained on the rotating axis of the input shaft. Does that clear anything up?

[RPalmer]

Originally Posted by Matt G.

Previous to this, all narrowframes (and possibly the 1x9s; I don't know because I've never owned a 1x9) had a 5/16" dia. or so nub on the back of the shaft that very loosely centered in the input shaft coupler with no bushing whatsoever. In that case, the rubber coupling had to keep it somewhat coaxial, but the rear coupler itself kept the driveshaft loosely constrained on the rotating axis of the input shaft. Does that clear anything up?

It sure does! The quote above is exactly what I have. I have been going nuts over this. When I found nothing the the parts look up I told some people that there was not a bearing. They were certain I was wrong and I prepared myself to look each one up and apologize. This also explains why I have a rubber coupling disc and the others I have from some used parts are layered cloth. I owe you one Matt. Thanks.

[RPalmer]

Thanks to all for the help and advise. I kept it factory complete with runs in some paint. I just got to bolt everything up.

[clint]

Looks good RPalmer

Sure gives you a piece of mind on a drive shaft rebuild/replacement. I went over your thread while working on mine, and I agree the one piece drive cup should be a end to any problems with that. Our pictures look a lot alike, I sure wished I had the time, energy, and money to restore my cub from the frame up, and at one time I had a chance at basic free powder coat painting, of large parts like cubs broke down into frame, hood etc, that would be the ultimate restore in my opinion.

[RPalmer]

Originally Posted by clint

Looks good RPalmer

I sure wished I had the time, energy, and money to restore my cub from the frame up, and at one time I had a chance at basic free powder coat painting, of large parts like cubs broke down into frame, hood etc, that would be the ultimate restore in my opinion.

Thanks. I'm with you on the wishing part. I really don't know how these guys get some of their Cubs looking so perfect. I had runs on the drive shaft. Then scuffed it all up putting on the fan. I got the bolt heads but forgot to do the nuts. I redid my Garden trailer wheels at the same time. Wired brushed them. Straightened out some minor "dents" . Filed the bead nice and smooth and then gave them 3 coats of paint. They looked like brand new. Then I put on the tires and chipped some paint and put in a couple of scratches. I guess I'll have to be happy with sorta clean working machines. I don't think I 'll ever be able to build a show horse.

I like the idea of the powder coat. I don't know the process but I bet it looks like colored chrome. And that would be the ultimate. Thanks for the props and thanks to every member out there who has given me their time and sage advise. It means alot to this old man. And my tractors mean a lot to me.