1450 Transmission Question - Page 2

_DX3_ · #11 09-14-2010, 10:59 PM

Engine oil filter on a 1450? There are no oil filters. Only the Hydro unit has a filter.

NiasNeb · #12 09-14-2010, 11:06 PM

Sure wish the dealer knew that...I'll use it on the Dixon.

johncub7172 · #13 09-14-2010, 11:15 PM

Can you get a bolt threaded in any of the broken spots? If so, JB Weld the broken parts, sand flat, Indian H. gasket seal with new gasket. I just dont believe we cant fix that!

NiasNeb · #14 09-15-2010, 12:37 PM

It can't hurt to try. I haven't put the weights back on yet. The spot on the lower right will still take a bolt. The section on the upper left has been re-threaded with a new hole and smaller bolt.

I've never used JB Weld before. How do I work that around a bolt hole without covering it up apply around the bolt? Is there some technique to this?

johncub7172 · #15 09-15-2010, 11:04 PM

It is worth an honest try. And I got a hunch its gonna work. Good thing JB Weld has a 20+ year shelf life, because the problem dont look like it will take much at all. You will need to read the instructions...of course! And the JB Weld is going to be real runny.......so you should wait at least 45 min. after mixing the epoxy togeather. The trick is simply not to have the mixture run down and out of the broken spots. The epoxy will need to be almost putty-like. I dont recall how long it took for the epoxy to set up like a putty, but I'am not far from base. Make super sure your holes are very clean, use a carb. spray after scrubbing the cracks. Like what Y.Sam had said earlier on, those 3 bottom bolts should be replaced with short bolts like the ones up above IF YOUR not running the toung{hitch} back there. Let cure 3 days to be safe. Sand:biggrin2.gif: down flat=KEY! This should fix the lower right crack. The upper left I guess you will have to go with what the po. did if you cant make threads it that hole. It would be nice if a guy could tap out the hole to make a bolt live there. Then you could make the repair like the lower right. It requires time to compleat, so dont be in any rush. I would like to see the sealer I recomended on the tractor and on the cover. You let that set up a spell as well. Dont get on epoxy in the gear house...stuff a rag covering all of the parts when you start to sand the epoxy and even before you clean the mating surfaces to keep all the paint chips, dirt, and gasket material out as well. Or just try a boat load of blue rtv. But I would not do that, myself.

NiasNeb · #16 09-15-2010, 11:18 PM

Surgery is schedule for Saturday sometime. I'll post back the results when I know something.

Sasky · #17 09-15-2010, 11:55 PM

I had a similar problem with my 1450 and JB Weld fixed it so it doesn't leak.

johncub7172 · #18 09-16-2010, 12:15 AM

If you do have the short bolts for the bottom 3 holes....maybe you should decide if running the hitch will have stress added to the cover-seal when towing things with the hitch. Just a thought.

NiasNeb · #19 09-16-2010, 06:25 AM

There will be no hitch on this machine as long as I own it (at least not bolted to the transmission). It didn't come with one either. That's not what I bought it for anyway. My goal right now is to put whatever it takes into it to make it dependable and functional and learn too.

For towing I got an old Murray (granted belt driven) that I re-powered that turned out to be a nice little machine (and cuts very well too). For grass cutting I have a Dixon. For goofing around in the yard and snow bank re-location, I now have a CC 1450 with a FEL.

I think I need a bigger garage now.

jeffscub · #20 09-16-2010, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NiasNeb

Sure wish the dealer knew that...I'll use it on the Dixon.

IMO, i would change dealers if he thought your mower had a engine oil filter. as far as your dilema on the chunk goes, if you could find someone who could "honestly" weld cast iron, you could redrill the hole and retap it back to the original thread. just a thought....... jeff