New to Cub Cadets, found a 1650 local.

[Johnnymac]

Thank you for the add!

I just joined,this is my first post.

Before I make a purchase that could get costly, I wanted to inquire with the pros. So go easy on me if I write something stupid here.

I'm thinking of purchasing a 77 1650 asking price of $700. Not far from home, like a few miles.
It seems to be in nice shape considering its age.

I would be using this mainly for mowing about a 1/2 acre. Was thinking of eventually finding a plow and trying to plow snow in the winter.

Issues I got from seller sound minor:

The mower deck hasn't been used in 15 plus years, it will require some maintenance.

Hours on the hour meter? METER NOT WORKING. STOPPED AT 55 HRS………OR 655 HRS………PROLLY NOT 1255 HRS, AS ENGINE NOT SMOKING

Fluid leaks, any known issues? ABOUT TWO DROPS A YEAR FROM THE DIFFERENTIAL REAR ACCESS PLATE. I know how to fix this.

Replaced driveshaft bushings? NOPE, DONT THINK THEY ARE A PROBLEM.

Seems to have a parasitic drain: BATTERY RUNS DOWN OVER THE COURSE OF A COUPLE OF WEEKS. WHEN I DONT EXPECT TO USE IT FOR A WHILE I ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE HOT LEAD TO PREVENT THIS. I can fix this

ALSO IT REQUIRES A BRIEF APPLICATION OF CHOKE TO GET RUNNING, EVEN WHEN WARM. PUSH THE CHOKE IN AS SOON AS YOU HEAR THE ENGINE CATCH. I can fix this

I am thinking of checking the following:

check if the oil pan bolts are stripped, if leaking
check if front axle was greased recently
look for any additional leaks

My questions:
Is there any way to test the spindles, without removing wheels?
Test the pto without an attachment? Just listen for click?
Will maintaining hydraulics get costly to maintain?

Any further suggestions/advice would sure be appreciated.

Thank you

[finsruskw]

1st off, for $700 this should be a clean turn-key machine.
Looks to be a clean unit and the deck appears to have been stored inside as well evidenced by the lack of RUST!!

Don't be surprised if you are able to turn the steering wheel quite a bit before the front wheels decide to move.
THIS would be the 1st thing I would check when walking up to the machine.
This will tell you a lot as to the condition of the front end.

Then, Grab hold of the engine and try to move it around a bit, If you can....BEWARE. There are likely loose, missing and/or stripped bolts that secure it to the frame.

Jack the unit up by the frame in the front.
This will allow the axle, steering knuckles and wheels to easily move for inspection.
Check the axle for fore, aft and axial play.
You may need to remove it and tighten the "C" channel up to remove this play.
Check all the linkage for wear and excessive movement in all the ends and joints, replace parts as necessary. Rotate the front wheels and listen/feel for rough movement indicating worn bearings. Not a problem fix BTW.
I would dis-assemble the knuckles, clean and inspect the parts, reassemble and lube. That way you will KNOW what you have and be able to replace any plugged, damaged or missing grease fittings.

Your 16HP engine will have a deep sump oil pan and will likely be aluminum.
Not good if the bolt holes are stripped and/or wallowed out in which case I'd be on the lookout for a cast iron replacement as used on the earlier 14 and 16HP Cubs.

The 1650's are a great machine if properly cared for, I own 2 of them, both w/dual hydraulics.

Good luck with your new machine!

[Johnnymac]

Originally Posted by finsruskw

1st off, for $700 this should be a clean turn-key machine.
Looks to be a clean unit and the deck appears to have been stored inside as well evidenced by the lack of RUST!!

Don't be surprised if you are able to turn the steering wheel quite a bit before the front wheels decide to move.
THIS would be the 1st thing I would check when walking up to the machine.
This will tell you a lot as to the condition of the front end.

Then, Grab hold of the engine and try to move it around a bit, If you can....BEWARE. There are likely loose, missing and/or stripped bolts that secure it to the frame.

Jack the unit up by the frame in the front.
This will allow the axle, steering knuckles and wheels to easily move for inspection.
Check the axle for fore, aft and axial play.
You may need to remove it and tighten the "C" channel up to remove this play.
Check all the linkage for wear and excessive movement in all the ends and joints, replace parts as necessary. Rotate the front wheels and listen/feel for rough movement indicating worn bearings. Not a problem fix BTW.
I would dis-assemble the knuckles, clean and inspect the parts, reassemble and lube. That way you will KNOW what you have and be able to replace any plugged, damaged or missing grease fittings.

Your 16HP engine will have a deep sump oil pan and will likely be aluminum.
Not good if the bolt holes are stripped and/or wallowed out in which case I'd be on the lookout for a cast iron replacement as used on the earlier 14 and 16HP Cubs.

The 1650's are a great machine if properly cared for, I own 2 of them, both w/dual hydraulics.

Good luck with your new machine!

Great Info, Thank you very much.
I did neglect to state that the motor mounts were replaced, not sure when.
I believe this has been for sale for a while.
I may just sit back and watch for now.
Thanks again!!!

[ironman]

In addition to fins points I would add to inspect:
at the front of the engine, surrounding the muffler is a cast aluminum piece that forms the base for the muffler shroud.
That piece has a tendency to crack and are rare to find and expensive. (although it can be aluminum welded)
The muffler is also expensive.

[DeltaCub]

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...t=56147&page=4

These are repair pics of my 1450 which included new muffler, muffler box bracket (and yes, it is expensive....so was the muffler). I added a muffler support bracket. Modified the engine mounting cradle, replaced the PTO field coil and replaced the driveline.

[Johnnymac]

As I figured, you guys are great!

Thank you.