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  #11  
Old 09-08-2010, 03:58 AM
motorcityman motorcityman is offline
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Great video. I'm having alot of difficulty removing the set screws. I soaked them in Kroil for several days but they still will not buldge and i'm affraid I will srtip them if I apply more pressure. Can I put heat (oxy/acetylene) on the groove of the pully/PTO to remove them? It's my last resort but i'm worried I may mess up the metallurgy on a high RPM part or am I thinking about it too much? First post here guys, I have a 129 i'm thinking about restoring and this motor has been apart for years... Joe
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  #12  
Old 09-08-2010, 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by motorcityman View Post
Great video. I'm having alot of difficulty removing the set screws. I soaked them in Kroil for several days but they still will not buldge and i'm affraid I will srtip them if I apply more pressure. Can I put heat (oxy/acetylene) on the groove of the pully/PTO to remove them? It's my last resort but i'm worried I may mess up the metallurgy on a high RPM part or am I thinking about it too much? First post here guys, I have a 129 i'm thinking about restoring and this motor has been apart for years... Joe
I know mine were not going to come out untill I took a .30cal. bore brush using a drillmotor and swab'out the hole, blow out hole to clean. Then maybe the screws will work their way out, depending what screws your on.
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  #13  
Old 09-08-2010, 10:10 AM
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Hub Man
Thanks for sharing this video. I have a 104 that I have to remove the clutch and keep putting off and now it doesn't look so difficult.
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  #14  
Old 09-09-2010, 04:09 PM
labrati labrati is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorcityman View Post
Great video. I'm having alot of difficulty removing the set screws. I soaked them in Kroil for several days but they still will not buldge and i'm affraid I will srtip them if I apply more pressure. Can I put heat (oxy/acetylene) on the groove of the pully/PTO to remove them? It's my last resort but i'm worried I may mess up the metallurgy on a high RPM part or am I thinking about it too much? First post here guys, I have a 129 i'm thinking about restoring and this motor has been apart for years... Joe

I had to drill and re-tap one of mine, and another one had already been bored out by one of the PO's.. who knows in 40 years which one performed that service? At any rate.. used a helicoil kit in the bored out hole... my biggest complaint about the PTO are the "locking" nuts that attach to the pressure plate screws.. mine ALWAYS work themselves loose.. I'm thinking nylocks next time.. it's sort of a pain to pull the whole assembly just to reattach those silly nuts... and yes.. I have two of them (primary and "locking") on each screw...
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  #15  
Old 09-09-2010, 05:37 PM
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...my biggest complaint about the PTO are the "locking" nuts that attach to the pressure plate screws.. mine ALWAYS work themselves loose.. I'm thinking nylocks next time.. it's sort of a pain to pull the whole assembly just to reattach those silly nuts... and yes.. I have two of them (primary and "locking") on each screw...
I suspect you might be doing something wrong, because two nuts locked together should not vibrate apart. I've done at least half a dozen of these things and never had this happen. You have to tighten the two nuts against each other (and tightly) or they'll loosen. I don't think the nylon insert in one of those locknuts will live long, as the PTO clutch gets hot from the friction of the belt and proximity to the muffler and engine.
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  #16  
Old 09-09-2010, 08:32 PM
motorcityman motorcityman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johncub7172 View Post
I know mine were not going to come out untill I took a .30cal. bore brush using a drillmotor and swab'out the hole, blow out hole to clean. Then maybe the screws will work their way out, depending what screws your on.
I used your method to clean inside the holes but I used a .223 bore brush instead:biggrin2.gif: I soaked the holes again with kroil and still nothing, in my experience Kroil is the best penetrating oil on the market and still nothing so I used heat and they came right out alas I had to use a little force and patience, but they did finally come out. Thanks for the Tip. Now I have to figure out how this one part comes off the crank shaft, but i'll start a new thread so not to Hijack this one anymore.
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  #17  
Old 09-09-2010, 10:10 PM
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The nuts for the pto's are made just for them so don't toss em.I think you can still get them from cub cadet.
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  #18  
Old 09-09-2010, 10:33 PM
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The nuts for the pto's are made just for them so don't toss em.I think you can still get them from cub cadet.
Really? They look just like ordinary 1/4-28 jam nuts, which are what I've bought and used in there on several occasions.
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  #19  
Old 09-09-2010, 10:50 PM
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It's the bolts that are special. But some times the pto can get hot Matt is right Nylocks won't work. You could use the all metal nuts but It's pretty rare that the IH system fails If properly torqued
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  #20  
Old 09-09-2010, 10:54 PM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
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Matt,
This is what a old timer at a cub dealer told me...I think he was just trying to sell me jam nuts for $2.00 a piece hehhehe,but I have used 1/4" 28 jam nuts too and have had no problems.What kind of open end wrenches do you use?seem like they have to be thin..
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