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#11
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but approximately, it is a good reference. ![]() |
#12
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I dunno, the can reads
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#13
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I've used that (JD green) it fades unless you use hardener.
![]() Even genuine IH iron guard does without hardener. |
#14
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Ironman, that is one very good looking little tractor!!. I may get in trouble here, but yellow is my least favorite color and white is next. If I was was doing a total resto, I'd pick your color scheme over the Cub original, for sure.
Can you say a bit more about the acetone and hardener in the paint? |
#15
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The products I used are pictured.
I did two coats, 5 parts paint, 2 parts reducer, 1 part hardener. I used acetone for reducer because Rustoleum dries slower than you hair grows, acetone speeds it up. Doing it again, I would probably add another part reducedr to the second coat to get better flow out. |
#16
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Thanks for the great information. (This should be stickied, as it's buried in a deck discussion but is great info).
I have a 35 gallon compressor and some HF spray guns. One of these days I need to try using them as I've never sprayed anything but with Rattle Cans. You do really nice work IM and thanks for the info.
__________________
61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#17
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Do understand paint is a lot thicker than wadder so adjustments will be different using paint/primers. But you will get a feel for the gun and how the adjustments affect spray patterns. Then shoot some primer on things that are going to be sanded, getting more experience. It is called a larnin' curve as we all know, and it causes you to get better spraying paint without a lot of runs or orange peel. one day you will notice you can do a pretty good job without a lot of misstakes ![]() Do watch video's of techniques on Yall' tube!! ![]() |
#18
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Great info Ironman! I, and I'm sure many others, would be very grateful if you were to do a thread on your procedure. Your results are very impressive!.
Did you prime the metal first? You're right about the Rustoleum. I used it for the loader build and it was aggravating to pick up a painted piece two days later and get paint on my hands. ![]() I used POR 15 on the bucket, the disc frame and the sleeve hitch, so we'll see how that stands up. |
#19
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I have used and like POR 15, but mostly I go with KBS Rust Seal for no particular reason. I did my 149 frame a few years back with KBS Rust Seal. It was winter time so I brushed it on and it came out like glass. https://www.kbs-coatings.com/rustseal.html Primer yes, I like to strip everything to bare metal so I prefer a self etching primer. I saw this stuff at Rural King and thought I'd give it a try on a project that I am working on now. It's very reasonably priced and I was pleased with the results. |
#20
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Ok, now you're making want to find a tractor, redo and keep it as a "Pretty Boy" machine.
![]() I'm going to check if Majic products are available here. Especially the primer. |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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