1650 Won't stop - Page 2

ironman · #11 03-28-2020, 09:00 AM

I'll probably get shot down on this but my way of thinking is that the big (outer) spring more or less keeps everything in place, and the inner spring does most of the work. That being said, I don't think a little slop in the big spring would cause the severe condition you are experiencing.

Have you checked the fluid level since you changed it??

athomas · #12 03-28-2020, 10:55 AM

I would think if the brake is pressed and lever returns to neutral with little or no slop anywhere, then the problem would seem to me to lie somewhere at the trans. since it happened suddenly leaves me to think something broke,but where ? could the pin that holds the trunnion shaft at the swash plate broke? does it not wand to stop in either direction ? lf all linkages are truly returning to neutral but it still wants to drive to me points to an internal problem with the trans ? and if it occurred all of a sudden hydro creep doesn't seem likely to me either but I certainly am no guru on trans either !

AndrewNoyes · #13 03-28-2020, 02:49 PM

I think you need to take the tunnel cover off, move the lever, and see what is happening at the transmission. If the linkage isn't right, you should see what the problem is. Good luck!

Dart1917 · #14 03-28-2020, 02:59 PM

Because this happened suddenly I think athomas probably got it. Check the shaft opposite of the trunnion side and make sure it moves with the trunnion shaft. If there is enough shaft sticking out grab it with something and work the controls. There should be no play between the two ends, it should be like it's one solid shaft going through the pump. The trunnion shaft is pinned to the swash plate and if the pins break you lose control of the swash plate position. Hydros want to go full speed and the controls actually hold them back. Neutral is the point where the swash plate is straight and not pumping. Once the swashplate starts tipping in one direction or the other the pressures make it want to keep going. The repair involves removal and disassembly of the hydro to get to the swashplate pins.

Dart1917 · #15 03-28-2020, 05:36 PM

A pic of the pin location that may be broken

go_aggies · #16 03-28-2020, 08:44 PM

I checked the shaft opposite of the trunion side and it does move with the trunion when you move the lever back and forth. I tried the cam adjustment again and while the lever is in neutral I am able to get the tires to stop moving, however, once I turn the tractor off and tighten everything up and restart the tractor the tires are spinning forward. So I tried it again and tightened it all up while the tractor was running and again when I try to cycle the lever in forward and reverse the tires will continue to move either forward or backward. I am beginning to think something is broke internally but I don't hear any type of grinding. Thank you again for all of the suggestions.

Dart1917 · #17 03-28-2020, 11:25 PM

Did you hold the shaft on the right side with something while you moved the controls? When pins shear they can hang up in the hole enough to move the shaft with no load but slip when under a load.

go_aggies · #18 03-29-2020, 06:43 PM

I did hold the right side shaft with a pair of pliers and it does move with the trunion side. It doesn't move a lot but the trunion side doesn't either.

Dart1917 · #19 03-29-2020, 09:13 PM

The fact that hitting the brake didn't stop it tells me that it's not in the linkages because the one that comes up from the pedal shaft puts the cam into the neutral position when you push the pedal. The trunnion shaft only has 15 degrees of movement for forward and 7 for reverse. I still think the shaft to swashplate pin is where your problem is. It's possible the weld has cracked where the arm is welded to the shaft but unlikely. Try again with the pliers and try to go in opposite directions with each end (grab hold of the lever on the left while you do this). There should be no play between the two ends, like it's one solid shaft going through. Anything else in the trans that could break would cause the trans to not operate. Your spring is on the loose side but it wouldn't cause the problems you're having. If you would like to eliminate that you could shove a small wood wedge on each side to make it solid and try it. The springs are there to provide a kind of cushion to the hydro control, without them the hydro would react instantly to control changes and be very jerky.

go_aggies · #20 03-31-2020, 01:33 PM

At this point, I think I am going to start looking for a new/used ported hydro pump. Is there anything that I should be on the lookout for when I look at one? I know that I should probably get into the one that I have, but I really need to get this tractor back up and running soon and having never torn into one I don't know what all I would be running into.