Oil Change Maintenance for QL 1000 w/10 hp Kohler

[ihnick]

me and my dad run amsoil synthetic in every engine we own, trucks, cars, tractor, mowers and premix with it

[1250cubcadet]

I usually use 30w and I change it when I pull out the dipstick and the oil has a brownish-tint . Dont let your oil get BLACK

[IAfarmer]

I use SAE 30 in the summer and synthetic 10w-30 in the winter.

Conventionals are fine. They new conventional oils are very, very good. I use Royal Purple synthetic in the tractor I bought new, only to ensure long life for that fresh motor. I wouldn't waste the money using synthetics in an old engine. That being said, I do use Motorcraft Synthetic 10W-30 in the winter for ease of cold oil flow in my 782 and my 1450. It is the same cost as conventional Valvoline, wheras the Royal Purple is $7 a quart.

My 782 threw a rod this year, but it was a Series I engine with over 450 hours. I had wasted money on Royal Purple on this motor for two years before moving away and going to conventional to save money. Based on the history of these engines, I did not cause the rod to throw by switching oils.

[denrocks1]

Does anyone here run 15W40?

[Matt G.]

Originally Posted by denrocks1

Does anyone here run 15W40?

As in Shell Rotella 15W-40, yes. I use it in my diesel and my Kohler Magnum twin cylinder engines in the tractors that are used year-round. I will use it in my loader 682 w/ K321 also, as I don't want to have to change the oil twice a year after only a couple of hours of run time.

I would not recommend multi-weight in the summer if you work the tractor hard. The oil level should be monitored closely (well, it should be regardless) when using multi-weight in the summer, as most K-series singles tend to consume oil when 10W-30 or similar is used in the summer months. I will never run 5W-30 or 5W-40 in any of my older machines, as I feel it gets too thin when the motor is up to temp.

We on another forum recently, and the consensus was as follows: Whatever oil you use, make sure it has a lot of ZDDP in it (> 900 ppm or so), as this helps the flat tappet cam/lifters in our old engines. Most modern oils have been reformulated to reduce the amount of ZDDP...something to do with modern engines not needing it and causing emissions issues or something like that. Anyway, Shell Rotella has like 1100 ppm or so, making it a good choice.

[Cub Cadet 123]

I'm a big fan of the synthetic oils, especially Mobil1---though it is expensive, but if you care & depend on your machine, you don't mind spending a little extra on preventative maintanence. I've checked the viscosity after completing my mowing or other jobs, when the engine is up to full temp and it is very consistent with fresh oil. It burns clean and holds up for me in the toughest of thermal conditions. I have also heard many mechanics reference the Shell Rotella oil as well, though I have never tried it myself.

I've never been able to change a QA deck in 30 seconds though, so I sometimes use a funnel with an accordian fold drain to help change my oil without pulling the deck.....it just depends on how much time I have to tackle the job.

Lots of luck to you and yours...

Cub Cadet 123

[young enthusiest]

I run 15-40 in my cubs. My dad buys 50 gallon barrels at the local ag store. It's called d-mo (deisel motor oil) but it works good. It helps reduce oil consumption in my oldest two, the 123 (43 years old) and the 128, both have at least 1000 hours if not more on them. The burn enough to go below the low mark on the dipstick in an hour when running straight 30 or 10-30, but I get them up to 4-5 hours running 15-40

[ihnick]

some of my tractors smoked pretty good but once i switched them to amsoil they quit using/buring oil period

[IAfarmer]

Havoline oils used to have the extra ZDDP, but they reformulated it a couple years back. I was using it exclusively due to that feature. Now, I mainly use Valvoline, but will buy something else if the deal is very good. In fact, I used Mobil 1 once, as it was on sale at Walmart for the same price as Valvoline conventional. Ran it to 6000 miles in the van and then changed it.

There are many, many great oil forums out there, and many, many opinions. Matt is right, to each his own.

To keep on topic, I think there is enough info here to help with the oil change questions. I want to slap the guy that designed the deck system as it is a PIA to remove, so I changed my oil when switching to the snow blower, and then when switching back to the deck. Not enough hours in between to matter.

Now I am on 6 acres and it makes a difference, but I have a new tractor that was designed with a system that allows you to change the oil with the deck on it.

[cubs-n-bxrs]

I am also a shell rotella 15w40 fan. All my tractors run it. As far as changing the oil I leave my deck on also. I cut a piece of 2in dia x 18in long pvc in half and use it as a drain trough. Works fairly well .